Friday, April 25th, 2014
Were you one of the lucky ones to visit the Minnesota Yarn Shop Hop shops earlier this month? Well the numbers are in and 1150 people started the hop over the four day event! 403 of these fine folks visited every participating shop. Each one saw and average of 680 customers come through their doors. The best part is however, over 3100 pounds of food was donated and $22, 000 was raised for area food shelves. Plymouth Yarn was happy to donate towards giveaways and door prizes for the 8th annual event. Thank you so much for shopping this wonderful shop hop. Once again, if you talk to my boss, tell him I need to be there next year.
Participating shops included:
3 Kittens Needlearts, All About Yarn, Amazing Threads, A Sheepy Yarn Shop, Lakeside Yarn, Darn Knit Anyway, Lila and Claudine’s, Needlework Unlimited, Skeins, The Yarn Garage, and Unwind.
I found this awesome crochet pattern when peeking into our designer’s office. I’m making mine in white Goldrush for my newly remodeled beach theme bedroom. I already bought my jars and battery operated candles! Enjoy the pattern and be sure to share your finished products with us on facebook, twitter and ravelry! We love to see projects!
F540 Gold Rush Candle Jar Covers PDF Download
1 cone of Plymouth Gold Rush
Crochet hook 3.25 mm
Jar # 1 (shown on right): 6 DC = one inch. Check when you have done a few rounds of the tree pattern that it fits properly around the jar.
Jar # 2 (shown on left): 1 shell and 1 DC = one inch. Check when you have worked a few row of the shell pattern that it will fit properly around the jar.
BEGIN– BASE FOR BOTH JARS:
Ch 2. Work 6 SC into the first chain stitch. Sl st into the first SC st that you made.
Ch 1. Do not turn but work 2 SC into the same st where you joined and then continue working 2 SC into the next 5 SC. Sl st into the first SC. (12 SC.)
Ch 1 (It may be helpful to put a pin into this ch after each round so that you know where each round beg. Skip over this ch when joining rounds.) *Work 2 SC into the same st where you joined and work 1 SC into the next SC. Rep from * 5 times. Skip over the ch 1 and sl st into the first SC of the round. (18 SC)
Ch 1, Work 2 SC into the same st where you joined and work 1 SC into each of the next 2 SC. Rep from * 5 times. Join to the first SC of that round. (24 SC)
Ch 1, *Work 2 SC into the same st where you joined and work 1 SC into each of the next 3 SC. Rep from * 5 times. Join to the first SC of that round. (30 SC)
Cont in this manner working an extra SC between each inc (2 SC in the same st). When you have 8 SC between the inc, the bottom of the jar will be finished. (60 SC), This completes the base.
Jar #1 (shown on the right)
The rest of the jar cover will be worked in blocks and spaces.
Space: DC, ch 2, skip 2 sts.
Block: 3 DC.
Round 1: Ch 5. skip 2 SC (this counts as a DC and 2 ch, forming your first space.), 1 space, *1 block, 4 spaces , rep from * 2 times, 1 block, 2 spaces, sl st into the 3rd ch of the previous round.
Round 2: Rep Round 1.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as a DC), DC in each DC and 2 DC in each space, (20 blocks) sl st into the 3rd ch of the previous round.
Rounds 4 and 5: Rep Round 3. When you finish the round, sl st into the top of the ch 3 in the previous round.
Round 6: Ch 5, *3 blocks, 2 spaces, rep from *2 times, 3 blocks, 1 space, sl st into the 3rd ch of the previous round.
Rounds 7 and 8: Rep Round 6.
Round 9 and 10: Rep Round 1.
Round 11: Work 20 spaces around. Fasten off.
Jar #2: (shown on the left)
Beg shell pattern as follows:
First round: Ch 3 (counts as a DC) *skip 2 SC, 5 DC in the next SC, skip 2 SC, 1 DC in the next SC. Rep from * 8 times. Skip 2 SC, 5 DC in the next SC, skip 2 SC, sl st into the top of the ch 3 that beg the round.
All other rounds: Ch 3, 5 DC in the top of the shell in the previous round, 1 DC in the 1 DC in the previous round. End each round by working a sl st into the top of the beg chain of the previous round. When shell pattern measures 3.5” (about 10 or11 rounds), fasten off.
(IMPORTANT: not recommended for open flame. Plymouth Yarn has not tested for flammability.)
©2014 Designed by Sue Hilger for Plymouth Yarn Company. 022014cab
Category Accessories, Design/Patterns, Free Patterns, Happenings, Magazines, Plymouth Sales Reps, Plymouth Staff, TNNA, Yarn, Yarn Shops | Tags: Tags: candles, crochet, DIY, facebook, Gold Rush, hand knit, holiday, knit accessories, knitting, Minnesota shop hop, pattern, Plymouth Yarn, ravelry, twitter, Yarn, Yarn Shops,
Monday, March 24th, 2014
These booties are quick & easy to make with our newest alpaca wonder:
Baby Alpaca Cherish, which is a DK weight 50-50 Blend of Alpaca and Acrylic..that way it has the warmth and softness of Baby Alpaca, plus the durability of acrylic. GREAT IDEA and it comes in stunning colors too! I am loving this yarn….made a hat & booties from ONE ball. I hope you like my pattern, which was told to me by a dear friend named “JJ”, and I am calling them “Dutch” Booties after her. Thanks JJ.
”DUTCH” BABY BOOTIES by Heidi Sunday
Size: Newborn (6 months)
Using approx 1 oz Sport/DK weight yarn (Plymouth Baby Alpaca Cherish used in sample)
US Size 2-3 needles, two small stitch holders
Gauge: Approx 5.5-6 Stitches/7 Rows per inch
Abbreviations Used: YO: Yarn Over
SKP: Slip 1 (as if to purl), Knit 1, Pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch)
Cast on 38 (42), leaving a long tail for sewing up.
Knit 6 rows (3 ridges of garter stitch)
Work 3 rows of K1 P1 rib
Eyelet row:K1, (YO, K2tog) around, ending with K1
Work 3 rows of K1 P1 rib
K13 (14), put 13 (14) stitches just knitted on holder, K12 (14), put remaining 13 (14) stitches on holder
Working on middle 12 (14) stitches only, work in garter stitch (K all rows) for 18 (22) rows (9 (11) ridges).
Pick up 9 (11) stitches along side, K13 (K14) from holder, turn and K34 (39), pick up (purlwise is best…reach from behind stitch as if to purl when picking up stitch) 9 (11) along opposite side, K13 (14) from holder (56 (64) stitches total)
Knit 10 rows (5 ridges of garter stitch)
Heel and toe decreases:
Row 1: K5, K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K10 (12), K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K5
Row 2: Knit across row
Repeat these 2 rows three times: changing row 1 (decrease row) as follows:
K4, K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K8 (10), K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K4
K3, K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K6 (8), K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K3
K2, K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K4 (6), K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K2
Bind off and sew back of heel and bottom together. A crocheted chain beginning and ending with a ring of 10-12 crocheted chain stitches can be used for laces. Or, use a braid or piece of ribbon. The cuff can be edged by crocheting: SC, Ch 3, SC, Ch 3, etc
Special note to pattern collectors and those with “inquiring minds”: the “baby” is wearing a hat from Ravelry, called Seventh. Her easy little topdown sweater is Encore Dynamo, Color 2, Plymouth pattern number 2649.
Friday, February 14th, 2014
I am really enjoying the look of “well-loved” knits lately. Wearing something from a couple decades past, even though it isn’t particularly something bought at a vintage store, is super cool and chic. “What’s old is new” seems to be the motto!
Hand knitters can really take advantage of this theme. Purposely adding patches or embroidery to a sweater, hat, afghan or even sock can make your well loved items refreshed. Foxy Patches and Native American neckline and Take a look at these clouds
For this month, I’ve designed a patched-up guernsey-esque pullover in lovely Grignasco Loden. I love how the tweedy fleck in the Loden matches all the colors I’ve used– the grey tweed has bits of gold and blue. The yellow and blue have a hazy tan/grey to it. They were meant to be together! The Loden creates a delightfully soft tweedy fabric with a hint of a halo.
Where to start? Your sweater is like a blank canvas. The best way to begin embellishing your knit is to sit down and plan out the space. Draw a couple sketches, swatch, until you are satisfied. I made had a couple patches (some in seed and some in garter) and had a pretty good idea where they would go on the pullover. Once sewn in place, I felt like something was missing at the bottom of the sweater. I knit up a floral arrangement of a vine and leaves and stitched it into place. It truly has a whimsical feel, much like the picture knits of the 80s.
Loden Women’s Patchwork Guernsey Pullover
Download the pdf
To Fit Women’s Size: S, (M, L, XL, XXL, XXXL)
Approx. Finished Chest: 36”, (40, 44, 48, 52, 56)
Length: 24”, (24 ½, 25, 25 ½, 26, 26 ½)
Sleeve Length (from underarm): 18 ½” (all sizes)
8, (10, 11, 12, 13, 14)—50G balls, color 590 MC Grey
1, (1, 1, 2, 2, 2)—50G balls, color 603 CC1 Yellow
1, (1, 1, 2, 2, 2)—50G balls, color 809 CC2 Blue
Gauge: 18 sts, 22 rows= 4” in st st on US size 7 (4.5mm) needles,
18 sts, 28 rows= 4” in double moss st on US size 7 (4.5mm) needles,
18 sts, 40 rows= 4” in garter st (k every row) on US size 7 (4.5mm) needles,
20 sts= 4” in seed cable st & 2×2 ribbing on US size 7 (4.5mm) needles.
Needles/Notions: US Size 7 (4.5mm)- 16 & 32” circular
needle, set of US Size 7 (4.5mm) DPNs, 2 stitch
markers (m), 4 removable markers (m), 3 stitch holders, cable needle.
Pattern is written for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parenthesis. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
When working the Seed Cable St, work either chart or written instructions. If following the chart, work RS Rows from right to left, and WS Rows from left to right.
Pullover body and sleeves are worked in the round until the armholes.
Double Moss St (Multiple of 2 sts + 1)
Rows 1 and 4: K1, *p1, k1; rep from * across.
Rows 2 and 3: P1, *k1, p1; rep from * across.
Rep these 4 rows for pattern st.
Seed Cable St (Multiple of 9 sts + 5)
Row 1 (RS): *(P1, k1)2x, p1, C2F, C2B: rep from * to last 5 sts, (p1, k1)2x, p1.
Rows 2 and 4: K2, p1, k2, *p4, k2, p1, k2; rep from *.
Row 3: (p1, k1)2x, p1, k4; rep from * to last 5 sts (p1, k1) 2x, p1.
Rep these 4 rows for pattern st.
With 32” circular needle and MC, CO 180, (200, 220, 240, 260, 280) sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. PM to mark beg of round. Work in 2×2 rib (k2 sts, p2 sts) for 3”. K across next row, dec 18, (20, 22, 24, 26, 28) sts evenly across. 162, (180, 198, 216, 234, 252) sts. Place another m to mark the halfway point of the round.
Work in st st (k every row) until body measures 17” from CO edge, ending 11, (15, 16, 20, 20, 21) sts before the end of the last round.
Shape Armhole: BO 22, (30, 32, 40, 40, 42) sts- removing the m as you get to it, k to 11, (15, 16, 20, 20, 21) sts before next m, BO 22, (30, 32, 40, 40, 42) sts- removing the m as you get to it, k to end of row.
59, (60, 67, 68, 77, 84) sts for each section. You will now be working just on the Back section.
Place the other 59, (60, 67, 68, 77, 84) sts onto a holder.
Turn so that WS is facing. Work back and forth in rows in st st (p1 row, k1 row) for 2”, end having worked a k row. P across next row, inc 9, (8, 10, 9, 9, 11) sts evenly across. 68, (68, 77, 77, 86, 95) sts.
Beg working in Seed Cable st. When armhole measures 6”, (6 ½, 7, 7 ½, 8, 8 ½), work neck shaping as follows:
Neck Shaping: Pattern to center 26, (26, 27, 27, 28, 29) sts, place those center sts onto a holder, attach another strand of yarn, pattern to end of row. 21, (21, 25, 25, 29, 33) sts for each shoulder.
Working both sides at once, dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row 5 times—5 sts dec’d for each shoulder.
16, (16, 20, 20, 24, 28) sts rem for each shoulder. Place sts onto a holder.
With WS facing, rejoin MC & p across all 59, (60, 67, 68, 77, 84) sts on holder. Work neck shaping row same as for back when armhole measures 4”, (4 ½, 5, 5 ½, 6, 6 ½). 16, (16, 20, 20, 24, 28) sts rem for each front.
Work even until front measures same as back. “Kitchener st” or “3 needle BO” the back and front sts together.
With DPNs and MC, CO 36, (36, 40, 40, 40, 40) sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist and PM. Work in 2×2 rib (k2 sts, p2 sts) for 2”. Beg working in st st (K every row) for 2” more. Inc 1 st before and after the m on next and foll 5th, (4th, 4th, 4th, 3rd, 3rd) round 14, (16, 16, 18, 21, 24) times total—28, (32, 32, 36, 42, 48) sts inc’d.
64, (68, 72, 76, 82, 88) sts. Work even in st st until sleeve measures 18 ½” from CO edge. Place a removable m at each end of next round. You will now beg working in rows in st st. Cont to work another 2 ½”, (3 ½, 3 ¾, 4 ½, 4 ½, 4 ¾). BO all sts on next round. Make another sleeve.
Double Moss Patches
Left Front Patch (applied just below the body rib)
With CC2 and 16” circular, CO 29, (31, 33, 35, 37, 39) sts.
Work in double moss st for 6”, (6 ½, 7, 7 ½, 8, 8½). BO all sts on next row.
Right Sleeve Patch (applied around elbow)
With CC2, CO 19 sts.
Work in double moss st for 5”. BO all sts on next row.
Right Front/Back Patch (applied ½ toward the back and ½ toward the front, just above the armhole)
With CC1 and 16” circular, CO 40, (46, 50, 54, 58, 64) sts.
Work in garter st (k every row) for 3 ½”, (4, 4 ½, 5, 5 ½, 6). BO all sts on next row.
Left Sleeve Patch (applied just above the sleeve rib)
With CC1 and 16” circular, CO 14 sts.
Work in garter st (k every row) for 2 ½”. BO all sts on next row.
Block body and sleeves to measurements. Set in the sleeves (from the m) into the armholes.
Neck Rib: With 16” circular, MC, and RS facing, pick up and k15 sts along the left front neck to front holder, k26, (26, 27, 27, 28, 29) sts from front holder- dec 1, (1, 0, 0, 1, 0) st, k15 sts along the right front neck to shoulder, k6 sts from the back neck to holder, k26, (26, 27, 27, 28, 29) sts from the back neck-dec 1, (1, 0, 0, 1, 0) st, k6 sts from the back neck. PM to m beg of round. 92, (92, 96, 96, 96, 100) sts.
Work in 2×2 rib (k2 sts, p2 sts) for 1”. BO all sts in rib on next round.
Sew the patches to their designated areas if you so desire- or place them wherever you like. Use a basting st along the edges of the patches in either CC1 or CC2 to add extra contrast/texture if you desire.
(make 1 each in CC1 & CC2) With DPNs, CO 13 sts.
Row 1 (WS): K6, p1, k6.
Row 2: K5, sl2, k1, p2sso, k5—2 sts dec’d. 11 sts.
Row 3: K5, p1, k5.
Row 4: K4, sl2, k1, p2sso, k4—2 sts dec’d. 9 sts.
Row 5: K4, p1, k4.
Row 6: K3, sl2, k1, p2sso, k3—2 sts dec’d. 7 sts.
Row 7: K3, p1, k3.
Row 8: K2, sl2, k1, p2sso, k2—2 sts dec’d. 5 sts.
Row 9: K2, p1, k2.
Row 10: K1, sl2, k1, p2sso, k1—2 sts dec’d. 3 sts.
Row 11: K1, p1, k1.
Row 12: Sl2, k1, p2sso, cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
(make 2 with CC1 & 1 with CC2) With DPNs, CO 5 sts.
Row 1 and all WS Rows: P all sts.
Row 2: K2, yo, k1, yo, k2—2 sts inc’d. 7 sts.
Row 4: K3, yo, k1, yo, k3—2 sts inc’d. 9 sts.
Row 6: K4, yo, k1, yo, k4—2 sts inc’d. 11 sts.
Row 8: K5, yo, k1, yo, k5—2 sts inc’d. 13 sts.
Row 10: K all sts.
Row 12: Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d. 11 sts. Rep Row 11 and 12– 4 times more—8 sts dec’d. 3 sts rem.
Next RS Row: Sl1, k2tog, psso, Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
With a double strand of CC2, make a chain st across the front of the pullover. Arrange the leaves and sew them onto the front (as shown in the photo). Weave in all ends.
©2014 Plymouth Yarn Company. 021014vle
ABBREVIATIONS: beg= begin(ning), BO= bind off, C2B= sl 1 st to cable needle and hold to back, k1, k1 from cable needle, C2F= sl 1 st to cable needle and hold to front, k1, k1 from cable needle, CC= contrast color, CO= cast on, cont= continue, dec= decrease, DPNs= double pointed needles, foll= following, inc= increase, k = knit, m=marker, MC= main color, p = purl, PM= place marker, p2sso= pass 2 slipped sts over, psso= pass slipped st over, rep= repeat(ing), RS= right side, sl = slip, SSK = slip 1 st as if to knit, slip a second st as if to knit, knit them together through the back loop, st(s) = stitch(es), st st = stockinette st, tbl = through back loop, tog = together, WS = Wrong Side, yo = yarn over