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Embellishing Jewelry Tutorial

Tuesday, July 1st, 2014

Embellishing Necklaces

Every knitter and crocheter knows how precious and special our yarns can be to us. In fact, I consider myself an official collector! But after you make something with that oh-so-special yarn, there is usually some bits and bobs leftover that are too hard to toss. There’s got to be a way to use the scrap, right? Right! Our tutorial will give you some ideas to embellish chains to add new life to your jewelry.

Embellishing Necklaces

What you will need:

- necklaces chains with large holes for the needle/hook to fit through.

- crochet hook took fit necklace chain and/or tapestry needle to fit through chains. My hook size was 2.5mm

- scissors

- scraps of yarn- a couple yards of each will do the trick. We used Grignasco Sahara and Gold Rush

Embellishing Necklaces

To make the chain version, simply thread your tapestry needle with yarn. Start at either end of the chain. Proceed to go up and then down every other chain.

Try not to pull the yarn too much or else the yarn will bunch of oddly. Continue threading the whole chain. Cut the yarn, leaving tails to tie in. Knot into place.

Try not to pull the yarn too much or else the yarn will bunch up oddly. Continue threading the whole chain. Cut the yarn, leaving tails to tie in. Knot into place and weave in ends.

Voila!

Voila!

To make the crochet version, I used 2 strands of yarn together. You can use just one. Start at either end of the chain,

To make the crochet version, I used 2 strands of yarn Gold Rush yarn held together. You can use just one. Start at either end of the chain.

 

Begin working in single crochet through each chain across.

Begin working in single crochet through each chain across. Once you work the first row, Chain 1, turn. Then work 3 single crochets in each single crochet across to the end of the row. Cut yarn and fasten off. Weave in ends.

 

So pretty!

So pretty!

If you were wondering about the crochet flower on my necklace, I bought it that way! But of course you can make your own stacked flowers! Here is a tutorial I found that looks very similar to my necklace.

Enjoy!  –Vanessa

New England Yarn Crawl I-91 Fourth Annual!

Friday, June 27th, 2014

Hear Ye, Hear Ye,

All you New England Knitters!  Check out the details below of the 4th Annual I-91 Yarn Crawl!  Sounds like a weekend of fun, mystery and prizes galore!!

Please post your positive reviews here so we can live vicariously thru you!

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Click here for the Map of the Participating Yarn Shops:

 

new england I 91 shop hop poster_2014

Twelve local yarn shops located along I-91 from Putney, VT to Branford, CT have
joined together for the Fourth Annual I-91 Shop Hop! A shop hop is a fun way to
visit new and interesting yarn shops in a defined geographical area.
The I-91 Shop Hop will take place June 26th, 27th, 28th and 29th.
All participating shops will be open from 10 am-6 pm on Thursday, Friday & Saturday and
12 pm-5 pm on Sunday. Please note, many shops normally offer extended hours on
Thursday evenings and will do so during the Shop Hop.
The Mystery Tour
This year the I-91 Shop Hop will take you on a Mystery Tour. Each shop will hand out
an exclusive clue to the Mystery Knit Project. Collect all 12 and see what your knitting
needles can produce.
The Knitty Gritty Details
Within this passport you will find a dedicated page for each participating shop. As you
visit each shop, be sure you have the back cover stamped to show that you have visited
that shop. If you visit all 12 shops on the Shop Hop, you will be entered to win the Grand
Prize. When you receive your final stamp, the shop will tear off your back page and you
will be entered into the drawing. The drawing will take place on Monday, June 30, 2014.
Fabulous Grand Prize: $600 in Gift Certificates & More!
The Grand Prize will consist of yarn, books, tools & accessories from many of our wonderful
suppliers, PLUS a $50 gift certificate from every shop participating in the Shop Hop.
Two Incredible Runners-up Prizes, Too!
In addition to the Grand Prize, there will be two smaller prizes consisting of six $50 gift
cards to some of the participating shops along with a selection of yarn, tools, books and
accessories from some of our great suppliers!
Daily Raffles
Each shop will have a daily raffle drawing of items donated from many of our wonderful
suppliers. You are entered into the daily raffles by visiting the shop that day and completing
an entry form. You do not have to be present to win the daily raffle. New this year: on
Sunday afternoon each shop will take all raffle tickets from the weekend and draw one
winning ticket. The winner receives a Ball Winder & Swift.
The Fun Doesn’t Stop When the Shop Hop Ends!
Hold onto your souvenir Black 2014 Shop Hop Bag. Not only is it
great for all of your yarn shopping excursions throughout the year,
it will be your ticket to 10% savings on Saturday, March 15, 2015.
Stop by any of the participating shops and show your bag at checkout
for 10% off your purchase! Certain exclusions may apply.
Have Fun. Drive Safely. Good Luck! MYSTERY TOUR

Patriotic Patterns

Friday, June 13th, 2014

Summer is a really fun time to knit crafty, smaller projects. Portability is key- especially if you are taking a road trip, going to the beach, or just having a picnic. To spice up your summer, try this patriotic coaster for the fourth of July designed by Joanne Turcotte of The Knitter’s Edge. The coaster may look familiar, because we already having a matching hot pad pattern!

Fantasy Naturale, our 100% cotton, was used for both designs. We love Fantasy Naturale for its washability (it won’t shrink in the wash because it is mercerized!) Fantasy is also a quick to knit aran weight gauge, which means you can be finished with your crafty crafts in no time. Click on the photos to enjoy our free patterns, and have a happy holiday! –Vanessa

F338 Flag Hot Pad

F338 Flag Hot Pad

Fantasy Naturale Flag Coaster

F572 Flag Coaster

Revelation

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Long striping yarns have so many possibilities. Take our Grignasco Revel, for instance. Revel is a single-ply roving that softly transitions from color to color. Whether you are making a classic garter stitch cowl or working in a modular form, this yarn is so pleasing to the touch. We think this yarn is perfectly blended with 85% Baby Alpaca for a plush drape and 15% Merino Wool for smooth stability. Revel drapes the best in your most delicate of knit and crochet patterns. We’ve even blended it with our luscious mohair/silk blend for a truly textural cardigan.

Revel and Kid Seta 2656

Revel and Kid Seta or Kid Gloss Pattern 2656 designed by Cia Bullemer

For this month, I have designed a new triangular kerchief in Revel. The mini shawl requires only 1 ball of yarn and an evening or two to make. Worked all in garter st, the kerchief is worked modularly from the center triangle. You won’t need to be an expert to make this- knowledge of the knit stitch as well as simple decreases and increases are all that is required. Please enjoy my newest design! –Vanessa

Revel Kerchief

Revel Modular Kerchief

Download the pdf

Approximate Blocked Dimensions:
40” wingspan x 20” deep

Materials:
Revel: 1—50G ball, shown in color 19 Purple/Red
Gauge: 21 sts, 29 rows= 4” in garter st (k every row) on US Size 7 (4.5mm) needles after blocking.
Needles/Notions: 2- US Size 7 (4.5mm)- 24” circular needles or size to obtain gauge, 3 st markers (m)

The shawl is worked in modular pieces, starting with Part 1 and ending with Part 6.

Part 1.
Tab
CO 4 sts. K6 rows in garter st, do not turn on last row. Instead, pick up and k3 sts along the side edge of the piece, pick up and k4 sts along the CO edge—11 sts total on needle.
Row 1 (WS): K2, pm, k4, pm, k3, pm, k2.
Row 2 (RS): K2, sl m, m1, k to m, m1, sl m, k1, m1, k to m, m1, sl m, k2—4 sts inc’d. 15 sts on needle.
Row 3: K across all sts.
Rep the last 2 rows 23 times more—92 sts inc’d. 107 sts on needle.
Next Row (RS): K2, remove m, m1, k to m, m1, sl m, k1, m1, k to m, m1, remove m, k2—4 sts inc’d.
111 sts on needle. Cut yarn, leaving a 4” tail for weaving in, and set aside (leave the sts on the circular.)

Part 2.
With the second circular needle, CO 3 sts.
Row 1 (WS): K across all sts.
Row 2 (RS): K2, m1, k to end—1 st inc’d. 4 sts on needle.
Rep last 2 rows 27 times more–27 sts inc’d. 31 sts on needle.

Part 3.
(In this part, you will be joining part 1 and 2 tog. With WS of both parts facing, transfer Part 1 sts to left-hand tip of needle holding Part 2 sts.
Row 1 (WS): K30 sts of Part 2, k2tog, joining last st of Part 2 and first st of Part 1, turn.
Row 2 (RS): K to end of row.
Row 3 (WS): K30, k2tog, joining last st of Part 2 and first st of Part 1, turn.
Rep the last 2 rows 53 times more, end having worked row 3 (a WS Row)—you will end 1 st before the center m of part 1. Sl all sts back to first circular needle. Cut yarn (leaving a 4” tail for weaving in) and set aside.

Part 4.
CO 3 sts.
Row 1 (WS): K across.
Row 2 (RS): K to last 2 sts, m1, k2—1 sts inc’d. 4 sts on needle.
Row 3 (WS): K across.
Rep last 2 rows 26 more times—26 sts inc’d. 30 sts on needle.

Part 5.
(In this part, you will be joining Part 4 with Parts 1, 2 and 3.)
Row 1 (RS): K to m, m1, remove m, k1, ssk joining last st of Part 4 with first st of the original Part 1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): K to end of row.
Row 3 (RS): K30, ssk joining last st of Part 4 with first st of the original Part 1, turn.
Rep the last 2 rows 53 times more, then work row 2 (a WS Row) once more.
31 sts from Part 5, 31 sts from Part 3, and 1 st from Part 1 rem on needle. 63 sts on needle.

Part 6.
(You will now be making a center diamond with Parts 5, 3, and 1.)
Row 1 (RS): (Remove m when you get to it) K30, sl2, k1, p2sso, k30—2 sts dec’d. 61 sts on needle.
Row 2: K all sts.
Row 3 (RS): K to 1 st before center st, sl2, k1, p2sso, k to end of row—2 sts dec’d. 59 sts on needle.
Rep the last 2 rows 28 times more—56 sts dec’d.
3 sts rem. K 1 row. Sl2, k1, p2sso- cut yarn and draw through last st.

Finishing
Weave in all ends and block.

Revel Kerchief

©2014 Plymouth Yarn Company. 050714vle

ABBREVIATIONS: beg= begin(ning), BO= bind off, CO= cast on, m= marker, m1= with left hand needle, pick up the bar between left and right needle from front to back, knit this stitch through the back loop, pm= place marker, p2sso= pass 2 slipped stitches over, p = purl, RS= right side, sl = slip,  SSK =  slip 1 st as if to knit, slip a second st as if to knit, knit them together through the back loop, st(s) = stitch(es), st st = stockinette st, tbl = through back loop,  tog = together,  WS = Wrong Side, yo = yarn over

 

SPRING!!! FINALLY!

Tuesday, April 29th, 2014

From the Desk of Cia Abbott Bullemer

Kid Gloss (1)

OK, I don’t know about you, but this winter has been beyond brutal, beyond excessive-just down right wrong!

Well, here in Pennsylvania, we can finally say it is Spring with almost 100% certainty.  So of course, my knitting brain decided it was time to work up something pastel-y, something simple so I can look up from my knitting and something that will take the not-quite-warm chill off my neck.  A cowl, of course.  My favorite and essential accessory of choice. (Free Pattern attached below).

We just brought in a new lace weight mohair blend. OOOOOH! Wait till you see it, feel it and work with it.  It is called Plymouth’s Kid Gloss and Kid Gloss Hand Dyed (monochromatic color ranges in the Hand Dyed) from South Africa.  The composition of it is mainly SUPER Kid Mohair.  Which means the mohair’s micron count is even finer than kid mohair resulting in an even softer hand.  Mulberry silk is a silk fiber coming from a silkworm that eats only mulberry leaves. One of the unique benefits of Mulberry Silk is that it is 100% natural, odorless and hypoallergenic. Mulberry silk is so desirable because of its shine and fluidity.  Take the super kid and blend it with mulberry silk and you have Kid Gloss!

Another study I am working on is Gradation Knitting.  Working with 2 strands of yarn and switching different color strands to produce an easy transition of color ranges.  They play on colors was fun…so fun I want to try more combinations!

Here is the pattern.  We are just getting it in front of your favorite shop owners.  Ask for it!

F567 KID GLOSS GRADATION COWLpdf dowload

 

 

MN Shop Hop Results and Free Pattern

Friday, April 25th, 2014

Were you one of the lucky ones to visit the Minnesota Yarn Shop Hop  shops earlier this month?  Well the numbers are in and 1150 people started the hop over the four day event! 403 of these fine folks visited every participating shop.  Each one saw and average of 680 customers come through their doors. The best part is however, over 3100 pounds of food was donated and $22, 000 was raised for area food shelves. Plymouth Yarn was happy to donate towards giveaways and door prizes for the 8th annual event.  Thank you so much for shopping this wonderful shop hop.  Once again, if you talk to my boss, tell him I need to be there next year.

Participating shops included:

3 Kittens Needlearts, All About Yarn, Amazing Threads, A Sheepy Yarn Shop, Lakeside Yarn, Darn Knit Anyway, Lila and Claudine’s, Needlework Unlimited, Skeins, The Yarn Garage,  and Unwind.

I found this awesome crochet pattern when peeking into our designer’s office.  I’m making mine in white Goldrush for my newly remodeled beach theme bedroom.  I already bought my jars and battery operated candles! Enjoy the pattern and be sure to share your finished products with us on facebook, twitter and ravelry! We love to see projects!

Pattern -
F540 Gold Rush Candle Jar Covers PDF DownloadF540
MATERIALS
1 cone of Plymouth Gold Rush
Crochet hook 3.25 mm
GAUGE
Jar # 1 (shown on right): 6 DC = one inch. Check when you have done a few rounds of the tree pattern that it fits properly around the jar.
Jar # 2 (shown on left): 1 shell and 1 DC = one inch. Check when you have worked a few row of the shell pattern that it will fit properly around the jar.

BEGIN– BASE FOR BOTH JARS:
Ch 2. Work 6 SC into the first chain stitch. Sl st into the first SC st that you made.
Ch 1. Do not turn but work 2 SC into the same st where you joined and then continue working 2 SC into the next 5 SC. Sl st into the first SC. (12 SC.)
Ch 1 (It may be helpful to put a pin into this ch after each round so that you know where each round beg. Skip over this ch when joining rounds.) *Work 2 SC into the same st where you joined and work 1 SC into the next SC. Rep from * 5 times. Skip over the ch 1 and sl st into the first SC of the round. (18 SC)
Ch 1, Work 2 SC into the same st where you joined and work 1 SC into each of the next 2 SC. Rep from * 5 times. Join to the first SC of that round. (24 SC)
Ch 1, *Work 2 SC into the same st where you joined and work 1 SC into each of the next 3 SC. Rep from * 5 times. Join to the first SC of that round. (30 SC)
Cont in this manner working an extra SC between each inc (2 SC in the same st). When you have 8 SC between the inc, the bottom of the jar will be finished. (60 SC), This completes the base.
Jar #1 (shown on the right)
The rest of the jar cover will be worked in blocks and spaces.
Space: DC, ch 2, skip 2 sts.
Block: 3 DC.
Round 1: Ch 5. skip 2 SC (this counts as a DC and 2 ch, forming your first space.), 1 space, *1 block, 4 spaces , rep from * 2 times, 1 block, 2 spaces, sl st into the 3rd ch of the previous round.
Round 2: Rep Round 1.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as a DC), DC in each DC and 2 DC in each space, (20 blocks) sl st into the 3rd ch of the previous round.
Rounds 4 and 5: Rep Round 3. When you finish the round, sl st into the top of the ch 3 in the previous round.
Round 6: Ch 5, *3 blocks, 2 spaces, rep from *2 times, 3 blocks, 1 space, sl st into the 3rd ch of the previous round.
Rounds 7 and 8: Rep Round 6.
Round 9 and 10: Rep Round 1.
Round 11: Work 20 spaces around. Fasten off.
Jar #2: (shown on the left)
Beg shell pattern as follows:
First round: Ch 3 (counts as a DC) *skip 2 SC, 5 DC in the next SC, skip 2 SC, 1 DC in the next SC. Rep from * 8 times. Skip 2 SC, 5 DC in the next SC, skip 2 SC, sl st into the top of the ch 3 that beg the round.
All other rounds: Ch 3, 5 DC in the top of the shell in the previous round, 1 DC in the 1 DC in the previous round. End each round by working a sl st into the top of the beg chain of the previous round. When shell pattern measures 3.5” (about 10 or11 rounds), fasten off.

(IMPORTANT: not recommended for open flame. Plymouth Yarn has not tested for flammability.)
©2014 Designed by Sue Hilger for Plymouth Yarn Company. 022014cab

Creative Knitting Summer 2014

Thursday, April 3rd, 2014

M11210_CKSum14_CVR (514x640)(1)

The Summer 2014 issue of Creative Knitting is chocked full of beautiful knits, six of which are made using your favorite Plymouth Yarns. This issue is on newsstands April 8th but the digital issue is available now! Click here for details.

Won’t the kiddos look adorable in these? Little Sailor Boy and Girl are made using Cleo.

2175339843_19A_LittleSailorBoy 2175339888_20A_LittleSailorGirl
The Cirrus in Kid Seta….

1363039823_03_Cirrus

The Dayflower scarf made with Sakki
1111839821_01_Dayflower

Nantucket Vest In Jeannee
1111839842_18A_Nantucket

Periwinkle in Happy Feet
1129539857_31_Periwinkle

Be sure to get your copy before they are sold out! Find a yarn shop in your area here!

Patchwork Loden

Friday, February 14th, 2014

I am really enjoying the look of “well-loved” knits lately. Wearing something from a couple decades past, even though it isn’t particularly something bought at a vintage store, is super cool and chic. “What’s old is new” seems to be the motto!

Hand knitters can really take advantage of this theme. Purposely adding patches or embroidery to a sweater, hat, afghan or even sock can make your well loved items refreshed. Foxy Patches and Native American neckline and  Take a look at these clouds

F539 Plymouth Loden Pullover

For this month, I’ve designed a patched-up guernsey-esque pullover in lovely Grignasco Loden. I love how the tweedy fleck in the Loden matches all the colors I’ve used– the grey tweed has bits of gold and blue. The yellow and blue have a hazy tan/grey to it. They were meant to be together! The Loden creates a delightfully soft tweedy fabric with a hint of a halo.

Where to start? Your sweater is like a blank canvas. The best way to begin embellishing your knit is to sit down and plan out the space. Draw a couple sketches, swatch, until you are satisfied. I made had a couple patches (some in seed and some in garter) and had a pretty good idea where they would go on the pullover. Once  sewn in place, I felt like something was missing at the bottom of the sweater.  I knit up a floral arrangement of a vine and leaves and stitched it into place. It truly has a whimsical feel, much like the picture knits of the 80s.

Loden Women’s Patchwork Guernsey Pullover

Download the pdf

To Fit Women’s Size: S, (M, L, XL, XXL, XXXL)
Approx. Finished Chest: 36”, (40, 44, 48, 52, 56)
Length: 24”, (24 ½, 25, 25 ½, 26, 26 ½)
Sleeve Length (from underarm): 18 ½” (all sizes)

Materials:
Loden:
8, (10, 11, 12, 13, 14)—50G balls, color 590 MC Grey
1, (1, 1, 2,  2, 2)—50G balls, color 603 CC1 Yellow
1, (1, 1, 2, 2, 2)—50G balls, color 809 CC2 Blue
Gauge: 18 sts, 22 rows= 4” in st st on US size 7 (4.5mm) needles,
18 sts, 28 rows= 4” in double moss st on US size 7 (4.5mm) needles,
18 sts, 40 rows= 4” in garter st (k every row) on US size 7 (4.5mm) needles,
20 sts= 4” in seed cable st & 2×2 ribbing on US size 7 (4.5mm) needles.
Needles/Notions: US Size 7 (4.5mm)- 16 & 32” circular
needle, set of US Size 7 (4.5mm) DPNs, 2 stitch
markers (m), 4 removable markers (m), 3 stitch holders, cable needle.

Pattern is written for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parenthesis. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

When working the Seed Cable St, work either chart or written instructions. If following the chart, work RS Rows from right to left, and WS Rows from left to right.

Pullover body and sleeves are worked in the round until the armholes.

Double Moss St (Multiple of 2 sts + 1)
Rows 1 and 4: K1, *p1, k1; rep from * across.
Rows 2 and 3: P1, *k1, p1; rep from * across.
Rep these 4 rows for pattern st.

Seed Cable St (Multiple of 9 sts + 5)
Row 1 (RS): *(P1, k1)2x, p1, C2F, C2B: rep from * to last 5 sts, (p1, k1)2x, p1.
Rows 2 and 4: K2, p1, k2, *p4, k2, p1, k2; rep from *.
Row 3: (p1, k1)2x, p1, k4; rep from * to last 5 sts (p1, k1) 2x, p1.
Rep these 4 rows for pattern st.

Body
With 32” circular needle and MC, CO 180, (200, 220, 240, 260, 280) sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. PM to mark beg of round. Work in 2×2 rib (k2 sts, p2 sts) for 3”. K across next row, dec 18, (20, 22, 24, 26, 28) sts evenly across. 162, (180, 198, 216, 234, 252) sts. Place another m to mark the halfway point of the round.
Work in st st (k every row) until body measures 17” from CO edge, ending 11, (15, 16, 20, 20, 21) sts before the end of the last round.
Shape Armhole: BO 22, (30, 32, 40, 40, 42) sts- removing the m as you get to it, k to 11, (15, 16, 20, 20, 21) sts before next m, BO 22, (30, 32, 40, 40, 42) sts- removing the m as you get to it, k to end of row.
59, (60, 67, 68, 77, 84) sts for each section.  You will now be working just on the Back section.
Place the other 59, (60, 67, 68, 77, 84) sts onto a holder.
Back
Turn so that WS is facing. Work back and forth in rows in st st (p1 row, k1 row) for 2”, end having worked a k row. P across next row, inc 9, (8, 10, 9, 9, 11) sts evenly across. 68, (68, 77, 77, 86, 95) sts.
Beg working in Seed Cable st. When armhole measures 6”, (6 ½, 7, 7 ½, 8, 8 ½), work neck shaping as follows:
Neck Shaping: Pattern to center 26, (26, 27, 27, 28, 29) sts, place those center sts onto a holder, attach another strand of yarn, pattern to end of row. 21, (21, 25, 25, 29, 33) sts for each shoulder.
Working both sides at once, dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row 5 times—5 sts dec’d for each shoulder.
16, (16, 20, 20, 24, 28) sts rem for each shoulder. Place sts onto a holder.
Front
With WS facing, rejoin MC & p across all 59, (60, 67, 68, 77, 84) sts on holder. Work neck shaping row same as for back when armhole measures 4”, (4 ½, 5, 5 ½, 6, 6 ½). 16, (16, 20, 20, 24, 28) sts rem for each front.
Work even until front measures same as back. “Kitchener st” or “3 needle BO” the back and front sts together.

Sleeves
With DPNs and MC, CO 36, (36, 40, 40, 40, 40) sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist and PM. Work in 2×2 rib (k2 sts, p2 sts) for 2”. Beg working in st st (K every row) for 2” more. Inc 1 st before and after the m on next and foll 5th, (4th, 4th, 4th, 3rd, 3rd) round 14, (16, 16, 18, 21, 24) times total—28, (32, 32, 36, 42, 48) sts inc’d.
64, (68, 72, 76, 82, 88) sts. Work even in st st until sleeve measures 18 ½” from CO edge. Place a removable m at each end of next round. You will now beg working in rows in st st. Cont to work another 2 ½”, (3 ½, 3 ¾, 4 ½, 4 ½, 4 ¾). BO all sts on next round. Make another sleeve.

Double Moss Patches
Left Front Patch (applied just below the body rib)
With CC2 and 16” circular, CO 29, (31, 33, 35, 37, 39) sts.
Work in double moss st for 6”, (6 ½, 7, 7 ½, 8, 8½). BO all sts on next row.
Right Sleeve Patch (applied around elbow)
With CC2, CO 19 sts.
Work in double moss st for 5”. BO all sts on next row.

Garter Patches
Right Front/Back Patch (applied ½ toward the back and ½ toward the front, just above the armhole)
With CC1 and 16” circular, CO 40, (46, 50, 54, 58, 64) sts.
Work in garter st (k every row) for 3 ½”, (4, 4 ½, 5, 5 ½, 6). BO all sts on next row.
Left Sleeve Patch (applied just above the sleeve rib)
With CC1 and 16” circular, CO 14 sts.
Work in garter st (k every row) for 2 ½”. BO all sts on next row.

Finishing
Block body and sleeves to measurements. Set in the sleeves (from the m) into the armholes.
Neck Rib: With 16” circular, MC, and RS facing, pick up and k15 sts along the left front neck to front holder, k26, (26, 27, 27, 28, 29) sts from front holder- dec 1, (1, 0, 0, 1, 0) st, k15 sts along the right front neck to shoulder, k6 sts from the back neck to holder, k26, (26, 27, 27, 28, 29) sts from the back neck-dec 1, (1, 0, 0, 1, 0) st, k6 sts from the back neck. PM to m beg of round. 92, (92, 96, 96, 96, 100) sts.
Work in 2×2 rib (k2 sts, p2 sts) for 1”. BO all sts in rib on next round.
Sew the patches to their designated areas if you so desire- or place them wherever you like. Use a basting st along the edges of the patches in either CC1 or CC2 to add extra contrast/texture if you desire.
Small Leaf:
(make 1 each in CC1 & CC2) With DPNs, CO 13 sts.
Row 1 (WS): K6, p1, k6.
Row 2: K5, sl2, k1, p2sso, k5—2 sts dec’d. 11 sts.
Row 3: K5, p1, k5.
Row 4: K4, sl2, k1, p2sso, k4—2 sts dec’d. 9 sts.
Row 5: K4, p1, k4.
Row 6: K3, sl2, k1, p2sso, k3—2 sts dec’d. 7 sts.
Row 7: K3, p1, k3.
Row 8: K2, sl2, k1, p2sso, k2—2 sts dec’d. 5 sts.
Row 9: K2, p1, k2.
Row 10: K1, sl2, k1, p2sso, k1—2 sts dec’d. 3 sts.
Row 11: K1, p1, k1.
Row 12: Sl2, k1, p2sso, cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Large Leaf:
(make 2 with CC1 & 1 with CC2) With DPNs, CO 5 sts.
Row 1 and all WS Rows: P all sts.
Row 2: K2, yo, k1, yo, k2—2 sts inc’d. 7 sts.
Row 4: K3, yo, k1, yo, k3—2 sts inc’d. 9 sts.
Row 6: K4, yo, k1, yo, k4—2 sts inc’d. 11 sts.
Row 8: K5, yo, k1, yo, k5—2 sts inc’d. 13 sts.
Row 10: K all sts.
Row 12: Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d.  11 sts. Rep Row 11 and 12– 4 times more—8 sts dec’d. 3 sts rem.
Next RS Row: Sl1, k2tog, psso, Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
With a double strand of CC2, make a chain st across the front of the pullover. Arrange the leaves and sew them onto the front (as shown in the photo). Weave in all ends.

©2014 Plymouth Yarn Company. 021014vle

ABBREVIATIONS: beg= begin(ning), BO= bind off, C2B= sl 1 st to cable needle and hold to back, k1, k1 from cable needle, C2F= sl 1 st to cable needle and hold to front, k1, k1 from cable needle, CC= contrast color, CO= cast on, cont= continue, dec= decrease, DPNs= double pointed needles, foll= following, inc= increase, k = knit, m=marker, MC= main color, p = purl, PM= place marker, p2sso= pass 2 slipped sts over, psso= pass slipped st over, rep= repeat(ing), RS= right side, sl = slip,  SSK =  slip 1 st as if to knit, slip a second st as if to knit, knit them together through the back loop, st(s) = stitch(es), st st = stockinette st, tbl = through back loop,  tog = together,  WS = Wrong Side, yo = yarn over

 

Neon NOW!!!!!

Wednesday, January 22nd, 2014

From the Desk of Cia Abbott Bullemer

Spring is Springing!

And after our trip across the country to participate in the Spring Show of The National Needle Arts event, we here at Plymouth Yarn are PUMPED! We had a tremendous response for our neon colors in Encore Worsted and our new sock yarn called Neon Now!

After returning from Italy in July on a Yarn Sourcing trip, we witnessed the same about trends. Neon is still wildly out there!  It is hot, it is now, and it is available!

Here are a few examples of neon for color combos.  I love the one below with the black and grey-see how it makes the orange pop but yet not read completely neon? LOVE THAT!

And then putting orange and fuchsia together? Who’d have thought that worked. But it does! Tell us what you do with neon!

Neon Stripe      #fashion #styles

Neon on the runwayThis spring, is all about neon



2013 Count Down of Best Selling Patterns

Tuesday, December 31st, 2013

Reflection is a common pass-time around this time of year.  Looking back on 2013, we have run a report on what sold the best this year.  Here you have it! In the reflection of the year 2013, we selected the top 13 best sellers.

#13 15701570_medium2

#12 2526   Linen Concerto    

#11 2555 EncoreColorspunandWorsted Encore Worsted and Encore Worsted Colorspun

#10 2496 Colorando

# 9 2436 Encore Colorspun

#8 NO26PLYMOPATSN026.zoom.1 Baby Alpaca Grande

#7 2466 Cleo

#6 2514Gina

#5 2437 Baby Alpaca Grande Hand-dyed

#4 2515 Gina

#3 1530EncoreWorsted Encore Worsted

#2 1873EncoreChunkyEncore Chunky

#1 2516Gina Gina