Like most knitters, I find top down raglan patterns rewarding and exciting. Not only are you eliminating sewing (thus eliminating the time needed for seaming), you are adding to the joy of watching the knit come together in one piece.
Stripe patterns in top down/seamless raglans are fabulous. You don’t have to purposely match up the stripes as with traditionally knit sweaters since you are working them altogether in one long row. Not to mention- it is a wonderful way to use up those little bits of yarn that are too precious to toss.
I’ve decided to share with you a classic top down raglan for babies and toddlers. I hope the interesting stripe pattern will keep you entertained as you increase along the “seams” and work the body. The garter bands, which stripe differently than the stockinet stitch of the body, give an urban and modern touch.
DK Merino Superwash, little sister to our Worsted Merino Superwash, was my yarn of choice for this because it blocks wonderfully, feels soft next to sensitive skin, and will hold up well to wash and wear for babies and toddlers.
Pattern is written for smallest size, with larger sizes in parenthesis. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
Cardigan is worked from the neck down, seamlessly.
Stripe Sequence
10 rows= grey
10 rows= navy
2 rows= white
4 rows- navy
2 rows= white
4 rows= navy
8 rows= orange
2 rows= white
16 rows= orange
Neck
(read through entire directions before proceeding)
With smaller circular needle, begin stripe sequence, Cast on 56, (60, 66, 70, 74) sts.
Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 6 rows, do not turn on last row. Switch to larger needle. Instead, Cast on 6 sts (front button tab).
Next Row (WS): k6 sts, p7, (8, 9, 10, 11) sts (right front), pm, P11, (11, 12, 12, 12) sts (first sleeve), pm,
p20, (22, 24, 26, 28) sts (back section), pm, p11, (11, 12, 12, 12) sts (second sleeve), pm,
p7, (8, 9, 10, 11) sts (left front), do not turn, instead cast on 6 sts (front tab). 68, (72, 78, 82, 86) sts.
Increase Row (RS): *k to 1 st before m, kf&b, sl m, kf&b; rep from * 3 times more, k to end of row.
(8 sts increased) –76, (80, 86, 90, 94) sts.
Next Row (WS): k6, *p to 1 st before m, pf&b, sl m, pf&b; rep from * 3 times more, p to last 6 sts,
k6. (8 sts increased) –84, (88, 94, 98, 102) sts.
Repeat these last 2 rows 3, (4, 3, 3, 2) times more. (48, (64, 48, 48, 32) sts increased)– 132, (152, 142, 146, 134) sts.
Increase Row (RS): *k to 1 st before m, kf&b, sl m, kf&b; rep from * 3 times more, k to end of row.
(8 sts increased)
Next Row (WS): k6, p to last 6 sts (slipping markers), k6.
Repeat these last 2 rows 10, (10, 12, 13, 15) times more. (88, (88, 104, 112, 128) sts increased)
220, (240, 246, 258, 262) sts.
At the same time when there are 3 garter ridges on the RS of front tab, work buttonhole row on next WS Row:
Buttonhole Row for a girl (WS): k6, pattern to last 6 sts, k2, yo, k2tog, k2.
Buttonhole Row for a boy (WS): k2, k2tog, yo, k2, pattern to last 6 sts, k6.
Repeat the buttonhole row 2 times more, spacing them 4, (4, 5, 5, 6) garter ridges apart (8, (8, 10, 10, 12) rows).
Divide Body
Row 1 (RS): (remove all markers as you get to them) k32, (35, 36, 38, 39) to m,
place next 49, (53, 54, 56, 56) sts onto a holder for sleeve, cast on 2 sts, K58, (64, 66, 70, 72) to m,
place next 49, (53, 54, 56, 56) sts onto a holder for sleeve, cast on 2 sts, K32, (35, 36, 38, 39) to end of row.
126, (138, 142, 150, 154) sts on needle Work in st st, keeping the first and last 6 sts in garter stitch, until body measures 7 ¼”, (8, 8 ¼, 8 ½, 8 ¾) from division, end having worked a RS Row. Switch to smaller circular. Work in garter stitch for 9 rows. Bind off all sts on next row.
Sleeves
(RS facing) Sl the 49, (53, 54, 56, 56) sts from the holder for one sleeve onto larger double points- pick up 2 sts at the underarm. Place a marker at the underarm- in between the picked up sts, for the beginning of the round.
51, (55, 56, 58, 58) sts.
With the appropriate color for the stripe pattern, begin working in st st in the round (knit every round)-
while decreasing 1 st before and after the underarm marker every 3rd, (3rd, 4th, 4th, 4th) round 10, (12, 12, 13, 13) times. 31, (31, 32, 32, 32) sts. Work even until sleeve measures 5”, (5 ½, 6 ½, 7, 7 ½). Switch to garter stitch in the round (purl one round, knit one round), smaller double points, and work 9 rounds. Bind off all sts on next round.
Repeat for the other sleeve.
Finishing
Block to measurements. Sew 3 buttons onto the front. Weave in all ends.
ABBREVIATIONS: dec = decrease, inc = increase, k= knit, kf&b= knit into the front and back of stitch, m= marker, pf&b= purl into the front and back of stitch, p= purl, pm= place marker, RS= right side, sl = slip, st(s) = stitch(es), st st= stockinet stitch, tbl = through back loop, tog = together, WS = Wrong Side, yo = yarn over, wyif = with yarn in front, wyib = with yarn in back
The TNNA show is just about to be under way in beautiful Long Beach, CA. Stop by our booths to meet some of our team. I am sitting in my office, it’s about 30 degrees out and we are having an icy, snowy mix. There isn’t any sunshine in the forecast for days. I see that Long Beach is looking at 72 degrees and sun for today. Am I angry? No. Bitter? Well, no, but I am bitter cold. Jealous? Maybe, just a little. I have decided to work through my frustrations. It could be your lucky day in the While The Boss is Away at TNNA Giveaway! I have a Cleo kit to giveaway like the one in this picture. *Color may vary
Cleo Kit!
This kit includes everything you need to create this masterpiece.
Pattern 2488, top only
One winner will be picked at random from one of our social media spots. Like, share or comment on our facebook page. Tell @PlymouthYarn what you like to do when #thebossisaway on Twitter, repin us on Pinterest. Blog comments are not included as “entries” at this time and are disabled. I’ll be watching all of them because, well, the boss is away! Winner will be announced February 8th.
Ask any knitter, crocheter, or crafter; the time for quick, last minute gifts is upon us. I’m definitely feeling the pressure!
Many of my friends are having babies, so luckily these gifts tend to be for the little ones. Anyone who has crocheted and knitted can tell you that crocheting is quicker than knitting in most regards.
My popcorn baby hat is crocheted in Dreambaby DK. It is a great gift for the babies in your life, and you’ll be happy to know it can be made lickety-split! Enjoy–Vanessa
To Fit Size: 0-3, (6-12, 18-24) months
Approx. Hat Circumference: 14 ½”, (16, 18)
Materials: Plymouth Dreambaby DK:
1, (1, 2)—50G balls, color 137 Brown
Gauge: 17sts, 20 rows = 4” on size US G crochet hook in single crochet (sc),
16 sts in popcorn stitch= 3 ½” on size US G hook.
Needles: Size US G crochet hook, stitch marker
Pattern is written for smallest size, with larger sizes in parenthesis. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. Use a marker to help mark the beginning of the round(s).
Begin (starting at the top)
Ch 5. Join with a sl stitch to form a ring.
(OR use the magic loop method to make 11 sc-
http://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/magic-ring-right-handed/ if using this method, skip to round 2)
Round 1: work 11 sc in ring. (11 sc)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc across round to last st, sc in last st. (21 sc)
Round 3: work 1 sc in each sc round. (21 sc)
Round 4: *work 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, work 2 sc in next st; rep from * 6 times more. (28 sc)
Round 5: *1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 6 times more. (35 sc)
Round 6: *1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 6 times more. (42 sc)
Round 7: *1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 6 times more. (49 sc)
Round 8: *1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 6 times more. (56 sc)
Round 9: *1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 6 times more (63 sc)
0-3 Month size only:
Round 10: 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc to end of round. (64 sc)
6-12 Month and 12-18 Month Size Only:
Round 10: *1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 6 times more. (70 sc)
6-12 Month Size Only:
Round 11: (1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st)2x, sc to end of round. (72 sts)
18-24 Month Size Only:
Round 11: *1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 6 times more. (79 sc)
Round 12: 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc to end of round. (80 sc)
All Sizes
Next Round: sc in every sc around. (64, (72, 80) sc)
Begin Popcorn Stitch
Round 1: *work 5 dc in next sc, drop the loop from your hook, insert your hook from front to back under the top 2 loops of the first dc of the group, grab the dropped loop and pull it through the stitch (1 popcorn made), sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around. (16, (18, 20) popcorn sts)
Round 2: sc in every stitch around (popcorn st counts as 1 sc). (64, (72, 80) sc)
Round 3: *2 sc in next 2 sts, work popcorn stitch (work 5 dc in next sc, drop the loop from your hook, insert your hook from front to back under the top 2 loops of the first dc of the group, grab the dropped loop and pull it through the stitch (1 popcorn made), 1 sc in next st; rep from * around. (16, (18, 20) popcorn sts)
Round 4: sc in every stitch around (popcorn st counts as 1 sc). (64, (72, 80) sc)
Repeat the last 4 rounds for popcorn pattern.
When hat measures 3”, (3 ½, 4 ¼) from beginning of popcorn stitch, end having worked a sc round. (Approximately 8, (9, 11) layers of popcorn will have been made). Work 4 rounds of sc. Work 1 round of backward crochet firmly. Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in all ends.
ABBREVIATIONS: ch= chain, dc= double crochet, dec = decrease, inc = increase, M= marker, RS= right side, sc= single crochet, sl = slip, st(s) = stitch(es), tbl = through back loop, tog = together, WS = Wrong Side, yo = yarn over, wyif = with yarn in front, wyib = with yarn in back
I’m sure everyone is busy with trimming, blocking, weaving ends in, and joining their seams by now. Knitters and crocheters never wait until December to make gifts…..right? HA!
So my mom’s shawl is made as well as the socks for my brother but here I am, December 7th, just remembering all the folks I forgot. It’s easy to overlook when our days are so hectic. I have so many people in my life who’s small actions make things run smoothly. Of course I remember my son’s teacher, but there’s the really sweet, part-time aide who always saves him a chocolate milk at lunch. If you’re a mom, you know it’s important to have people be good to your kids. The holidays are the perfect time to let them know how special they are.
This is where I thank my lucky starts for our line of ruffle yarns! One night, one skein in most cases, one aide remembered! I wanted to share some links for the patterns I’ll be using from Ravelry. Call your yarn shop and get a ball today!
Check out the upcoming issue of Interweave Crochet Winter 2012/2013, online edition release date is November 30th and you will see it on newsstands December 18th.
On the cover, you will see the Ghost Cone Scarf by Sue Perez using Grignasco Champagne: #306, 6 skeins. Champagne is 75% pure new extrafine superwash merino wool and 25% mulberry silk. It’s 100% gorgeous and elegant, it’s the perfect yarn for this project.
Photo by Harper Point Photography.
Call your yarn shop today to reserve your copy and to see the beautiful line of Grignasco yarns available.
I haven’t lived in these climates since 1994 when my husband and I packed up the kids and moved south! BRRR! This little headband or neckwarmer is a fun little 1-2 hour project made with Grignasco’s Camel Hair. You can actually make 2 from the 2 balls of yarn-obviously they are mirror images of colorway, but hey! You get 2 out of it.
I also see this as a nice and easy way to test your skills on Fair Isle or 2 color knitting. You only have 13 rows to deal with changing colors, and you are working in the round. No need to struggle with your tension expertise on that purl row!
Have fun with picking color combos, and get some holiday gifts done in the meantime.
A Cabled Cravat, “what’s Thot?”, you say. It makes a great looking neckwarmer, that’s Whot. I don’t know why I haven’t made this before. It only takes one skein, a couple of hours, and when you are finished, you will notice it was not boring! Lots of fun for the knitter, and even more for the recipient. I am thinking of making one in every color I can find, plus Baby Alpaca Hand Dye, Tweed, Glow or the newest variety Baby Alpaca Grande Hues.
Oversized knits are everywhere! Large sweaters and shrugs don’t need to be heavy. Soft, billowy yarns and stitches have been gracing the runways for several seasons. Plymouth Baby Alpaca Aire is a chainette constructed, 100% baby alpaca yarn; all the warmth and loft but no heft. Most of the colors are in heathered tones, making them easy to mix and match with many colors in your wardrobe. My shrug and slouch hat are made in a simple Brioche stitch. The shrug is basically a rectangle with armholes; the only shaping (with short rows) is at the collar.
With our blistery fall in full swing, it is a nice time to cozy up to your knitting! –Vanessa
Hat Circumference: 21 ½”, (22 ½) Shrug to Fit Ladies: S/M, (L/XL) Shrug from sleeve to sleeve: 46”, (50)
Materials: Baby Alpaca Aire:
2, (2)—100G balls, color 5011 for Hat
6, (7)—100G balls, color 5011 for Shrug Gauge: 16 sts, 24 rows= 4” in st st on size 9, 3.75 sts= 1” in brioche stitch on size 9. Needles: US size 9 straight needles and long circular (for collar of shrug) and short circular (for hat rib), 4 stitch markers.
Brioche Stitch (Multiple of 2 sts)
Note: Work slip sts with yarn in back.
Row 1 (WS): *k1, yo, sl1; rep from * across.
Row 2: k1, *sl the yo st, k2; rep from *, ending with sl yo st, k1.
Row 3: *yo, sl1, k2tog, (the yo st and the next st); rep from * across.
Row 4: *k2, sl the yo st; rep from * across.
Row 5: *k2tog (the yo st and the next st), yo, sl1; rep from * across.
Row 6: k1, *sl the yo st, k2; rep from *, ending with sl yo st, k1.
Repeat rows 3-6 for pattern.
Pattern is written for smallest size, with larger size in parenthesis. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
Hat
Cast on 80, (84) sts.
Work in Brioche stitch for 7”, (7½), end having worked a WS Row.
(There will actually be 120, (126) strands of yarn on top of the needle in brioche stitch; this is ok!)
Next Row (RS): *k1, k2tog; rep from * across. 80, (84) sts.
Row 1: pf&b, p to end of row. 81, (85) sts.
Row 2: k1, *k2 sts, k2tog; rep from * across. 61, (64) sts.
Row 3 and all WS Rows: purl all sts.
Row 4: k1, *k1 sts, k2tog; rep from * across. 41, (43) sts.
Row 6: k1, *k2tog; rep from * across. 21, (22) sts.
Row 8: k1, (2), *k2tog; rep from * across. 11, (12) sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a tail for seaming, and draw through remaining sts. Sew the side seam of the hat.
Rib band: With size 9 short circular, pick up and knit 72, (76) sts along the cast on edge of the hat. Pm and join in the round.
Rib Round: *k1tbl, p1; rep from * around. Repeat this round 6 times more. Bind off all sts in rib.
Weave in all ends.
Shrug
Cast on 74 sts. Work in 2×2 ribbing for 2 ½”, end having worked a RS Row.
(WS) Cast on 12, (22) sts, k across 74 sts, decreasing 4 sts evenly across ribbing. 82, (92) sts.
(RS) Cast on 12, (22) sts, purl to end of row.
94, (114) sts.
Begin working in Brioche stitch.
(There will actually be 141, 171) strands of yarn on top of the needle in brioche stitch, this is ok!)
When Brioche stitch measures 41”, (45), end having worked a WS Row.
(RS): *k1, k2tog; rep from * across. 94, (114) sts on needle.
(WS): Bind off 12, (22) sts, knit to end of row.
(RS): Bind off 12, (22) sts, purl to end of row. 70 sts.
Work in 2×2 ribbing for 2 ½”, increasing 4 sts evenly across first row. Bind off all sts.
Fold the shrug in half and sew the 12, (22) stitch cast on edges of the shrug together with the side edge of the 2 ½” garter band. Repeat this for the other side, where the bind off edges are.
Collar: With RS facing and long circular, start at one of the sleeve seams and pick up and knit 164, (180) sts along the side edge of the shrug to the other sleeve seam, pm for side seam, pick up and knit 164, (180) sts along the other side edge of the shrug, placing a marker on both sides of the center 44 sts (this will mark the back neck), PM to mark beginning of round/side seam. 328, (360) sts.
Work in 2×2 ribbing for 6 rounds.
Next Round: Rib to third marker, turn.
Next Round: Rib to next marker, turn.
Next 2 Rounds: Rib to next marker, remove marker, rib 3 sts, replace marker, turn.
Repeat the last 2 rounds until you reach the side seam markers. Then, work across all sts as before in the round, removing the back neck markers.
Work 7 more rounds in ribbing.
Bind off Round: k2, slip these 2 sts back onto the left hand needle and *k2tog through the back loop, slip the new stitch back onto the left hand needle; rep from * around. Cut yarn and weave in all ends.
Block lightly.
ABBREVIATIONS: dec = decrease, inc = increase, k = knit, k2tog = knit two together, m1= make one, pf&b= purl into the front and back of stitch, pm= place marker, psso = pass slip stitch over, p = purl, RS= right side, sl = slip, SSK = slip 1 st as if to knit, slip a second st as if to knit, knit them together through the back loop, st(s) = stitch(es), st st = stockinette st, tbl = through back loop, tog = together, WS = Wrong Side, yo = yarn over, wyif = with yarn in front, wyib = with yarn in back
See this cutie! One of our sales reps decided to try out the Dr Zhivago hat by CiD Hanscom Designs. Made with just one skein Passion Fur Yarn and the pattern is found on Ravelry. It just happens that her model was this adorable little guy who braved wearing the hat for long enough to snap the pictures! What a trooper!
This installment of the holiday knitting guide brings us to a casual, quick knit scarf yarn, Passion Nette. I like to think of this one as your everyday scarf yarn. This cotton/acrylic blend has a relaxed drape and a soft, natural feel against your skin. It’s available in 8 versatile colors that will coordinate with anything in your wardrobe.
