You can find Design Details from Vanessa Ewing and Marketing News from Kaelin Hearn - Find out our newest ideas and thoughts. We plan to talk about all aspects of the industry from yarn, knitting, crocheting, design, patterns, etc. If you are looking to purchase yarn, please click the "Find a Shop" link to the right. We are wholesale only. To always be in the loop, be sure to subscribe to our blog by clicking here. We welcome all to join and participate. Let's have fun:)
Written on June 13, 2014 at 8:30 am, by Vanessa
Summer is a really fun time to knit crafty, smaller projects. Portability is key- especially if you are taking a road trip, going to the beach, or just having a picnic. To spice up your summer, try this patriotic coaster for the fourth of July designed by Joanne Turcotte of The Knitter’s Edge. The coaster may look familiar, because we already having a matching hot pad pattern!
Fantasy Naturale, our 100% cotton, was used for both designs. We love Fantasy Naturale for its washability (it won’t shrink in the wash because it is mercerized!) Fantasy is also a quick to knit aran weight gauge, which means you can be finished with your crafty crafts in no time. Click on the photos to enjoy our free patterns, and have a happy holiday! –Vanessa
Category Design/Patterns, Free Patterns, Yarn | Tags: american flag,coaster pattern,crafts,Fantasy Naturale,flag,fourth of july,joanne turcotte,knitting,Plymouth Yarn,summer knitting,the knitters edge
Written on June 9, 2014 at 1:09 pm, by Cia
This last weekend I was weeding in my garden and remembering when I did this as a child. I didn’t like it then because my mother made it a chore! And who likes chores…?!It got me thinking about my childhood in the summers.
Growing up in Minnesota, along the Mississippi River, we swam day and night! Literally! My fingers and toes would be shriveled from being in the water from 8 AM to 8 PM with breaks for lunch, one hour of reading time (mandatory with my parents-don’t want to get cramps-must wait at least one hour before you swim after a meal…). Then a break for dinner and do the dishes. Back on my bike and pedaled back to the beach to swim more!
Well, by the time August rolled around, the river water was becoming a bit murky, and the novelty of jumping off the diving board was wearing thin.
So at home in the back yard, Mrs. Kenitz tried to entertain a few of us girls in the neighborhood. We would be sitting under an apple tree in the heat of the day and she was teaching us how to knit. The other girls became bored and ran off. But I kept going to back to Mrs. Kenitz and asking for me assistance.
Fast forward almost a half century (!!!?? YUP!) and here I am working at Plymouth Yarn, still playing with yarn.
I recently found Mrs. Kenitz in the old neighborhood and I stopped and thanked her for her lessons. She was aware of what I had done with knitting from what my father told her. She had a sweet smile on her face. And I left feeling I had done my best to thank her for her patience so many years ago. I felt completed and content that she understood how much of an impact she had on my life.
So the moral of this story-? (Yeah! Get to it!) Teach a child to knit. You never know when it might stick and what doors it will open up for this person 50 years later.
Written on May 15, 2014 at 8:00 am, by Vanessa
Long striping yarns have so many possibilities. Take our Grignasco Revel, for instance. Revel is a single-ply roving that softly transitions from color to color. Whether you are making a classic garter stitch cowl or working in a modular form, this yarn is so pleasing to the touch. We think this yarn is perfectly blended with 85% Baby Alpaca for a plush drape and 15% Merino Wool for smooth stability. Revel drapes the best in your most delicate of knit and crochet patterns. We’ve even blended it with our luscious mohair/silk blend for a truly textural cardigan.
For this month, I have designed a new triangular kerchief in Revel. The mini shawl requires only 1 ball of yarn and an evening or two to make. Worked all in garter st, the kerchief is worked modularly from the center triangle. You won’t need to be an expert to make this- knowledge of the knit stitch as well as simple decreases and increases are all that is required. Please enjoy my newest design! –Vanessa
Approximate Blocked Dimensions:
40” wingspan x 20” deep
Revel: 1—50G ball, shown in color 19 Purple/Red
Gauge: 21 sts, 29 rows= 4” in garter st (k every row) on US Size 7 (4.5mm) needles after blocking.
Needles/Notions: 2- US Size 7 (4.5mm)- 24” circular needles or size to obtain gauge, 3 st markers (m)
The shawl is worked in modular pieces, starting with Part 1 and ending with Part 6.
CO 4 sts. K6 rows in garter st, do not turn on last row. Instead, pick up and k3 sts along the side edge of the piece, pick up and k4 sts along the CO edge—11 sts total on needle.
Row 1 (WS): K2, pm, k4, pm, k3, pm, k2.
Row 2 (RS): K2, sl m, m1, k to m, m1, sl m, k1, m1, k to m, m1, sl m, k2—4 sts inc’d. 15 sts on needle.
Row 3: K across all sts.
Rep the last 2 rows 23 times more—92 sts inc’d. 107 sts on needle.
Next Row (RS): K2, remove m, m1, k to m, m1, sl m, k1, m1, k to m, m1, remove m, k2—4 sts inc’d.
111 sts on needle. Cut yarn, leaving a 4” tail for weaving in, and set aside (leave the sts on the circular.)
With the second circular needle, CO 3 sts.
Row 1 (WS): K across all sts.
Row 2 (RS): K2, m1, k to end—1 st inc’d. 4 sts on needle.
Rep last 2 rows 27 times more–27 sts inc’d. 31 sts on needle.
(In this part, you will be joining part 1 and 2 tog. With WS of both parts facing, transfer Part 1 sts to left-hand tip of needle holding Part 2 sts.
Row 1 (WS): K30 sts of Part 2, k2tog, joining last st of Part 2 and first st of Part 1, turn.
Row 2 (RS): K to end of row.
Row 3 (WS): K30, k2tog, joining last st of Part 2 and first st of Part 1, turn.
Rep the last 2 rows 53 times more, end having worked row 3 (a WS Row)—you will end 1 st before the center m of part 1. Sl all sts back to first circular needle. Cut yarn (leaving a 4” tail for weaving in) and set aside.
CO 3 sts.
Row 1 (WS): K across.
Row 2 (RS): K to last 2 sts, m1, k2—1 sts inc’d. 4 sts on needle.
Row 3 (WS): K across.
Rep last 2 rows 26 more times—26 sts inc’d. 30 sts on needle.
(In this part, you will be joining Part 4 with Parts 1, 2 and 3.)
Row 1 (RS): K to m, m1, remove m, k1, ssk joining last st of Part 4 with first st of the original Part 1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): K to end of row.
Row 3 (RS): K30, ssk joining last st of Part 4 with first st of the original Part 1, turn.
Rep the last 2 rows 53 times more, then work row 2 (a WS Row) once more.
31 sts from Part 5, 31 sts from Part 3, and 1 st from Part 1 rem on needle. 63 sts on needle.
(You will now be making a center diamond with Parts 5, 3, and 1.)
Row 1 (RS): (Remove m when you get to it) K30, sl2, k1, p2sso, k30—2 sts dec’d. 61 sts on needle.
Row 2: K all sts.
Row 3 (RS): K to 1 st before center st, sl2, k1, p2sso, k to end of row—2 sts dec’d. 59 sts on needle.
Rep the last 2 rows 28 times more—56 sts dec’d.
3 sts rem. K 1 row. Sl2, k1, p2sso- cut yarn and draw through last st.
Weave in all ends and block.
©2014 Plymouth Yarn Company. 050714vle
ABBREVIATIONS: beg= begin(ning), BO= bind off, CO= cast on, m= marker, m1= with left hand needle, pick up the bar between left and right needle from front to back, knit this stitch through the back loop, pm= place marker, p2sso= pass 2 slipped stitches over, p = purl, RS= right side, sl = slip, SSK = slip 1 st as if to knit, slip a second st as if to knit, knit them together through the back loop, st(s) = stitch(es), st st = stockinette st, tbl = through back loop, tog = together, WS = Wrong Side, yo = yarn over
Written on April 29, 2014 at 8:00 am, by Cia
From the Desk of Cia Abbott Bullemer
OK, I don’t know about you, but this winter has been beyond brutal, beyond excessive-just down right wrong!
Well, here in Pennsylvania, we can finally say it is Spring with almost 100% certainty. So of course, my knitting brain decided it was time to work up something pastel-y, something simple so I can look up from my knitting and something that will take the not-quite-warm chill off my neck. A cowl, of course. My favorite and essential accessory of choice. (Free Pattern attached below).
We just brought in a new lace weight mohair blend. OOOOOH! Wait till you see it, feel it and work with it. It is called Plymouth’s Kid Gloss and Kid Gloss Hand Dyed (monochromatic color ranges in the Hand Dyed) from South Africa. The composition of it is mainly SUPER Kid Mohair. Which means the mohair’s micron count is even finer than kid mohair resulting in an even softer hand. Mulberry silk is a silk fiber coming from a silkworm that eats only mulberry leaves. One of the unique benefits of Mulberry Silk is that it is 100% natural, odorless and hypoallergenic. Mulberry silk is so desirable because of its shine and fluidity. Take the super kid and blend it with mulberry silk and you have Kid Gloss!
Another study I am working on is Gradation Knitting. Working with 2 strands of yarn and switching different color strands to produce an easy transition of color ranges. They play on colors was fun…so fun I want to try more combinations!
Here is the pattern. We are just getting it in front of your favorite shop owners. Ask for it!
Written on April 26, 2014 at 8:29 am, by Cia
Nancy Stewart is a physical therapist who retired in 2013. She specialized in working with people who had been diagnosed with cancer. In 2008 she too was diagnosed with cancer and lost her hair from her treatment. In the Fall of 2013 Nancy noticed the basket of knitted hats at the nurse’s station in the infusion center at the Abramson Cancer Center of the University of Pennsylvania. At the time Nancy had left over yarn from a sweater that she had just finished knitting and was wondering what she could make with it. When she saw the hats she decided to start knitting hats for patients who were experiencing hair loss from their treatments.
Since then Nancy has been donating about a dozen hand knitted hats in a variety of beautiful yarns and hat patterns every 6 weeks. She takes them to the infusion center each time that she has an appointment in the infusion center. The nurses have told her that within minutes of the hats arriving, grateful patients begin to adopt the hats. Nancy has received donations of many different kinds of yarn for her project from Plymouth Yarns, knitting stores and friends. The warm hats that she knitted for the winter were more than appreciated. She is now beginning to transition to knitting lighter weight hats for the Spring and then the Summer.
Written on April 25, 2014 at 9:06 am, by Allison
Were you one of the lucky ones to visit the Minnesota Yarn Shop Hop shops earlier this month? Well the numbers are in and 1150 people started the hop over the four day event! 403 of these fine folks visited every participating shop. Each one saw and average of 680 customers come through their doors. The best part is however, over 3100 pounds of food was donated and $22, 000 was raised for area food shelves. Plymouth Yarn was happy to donate towards giveaways and door prizes for the 8th annual event. Thank you so much for shopping this wonderful shop hop. Once again, if you talk to my boss, tell him I need to be there next year.
Participating shops included:
I found this awesome crochet pattern when peeking into our designer’s office. I’m making mine in white Goldrush for my newly remodeled beach theme bedroom. I already bought my jars and battery operated candles! Enjoy the pattern and be sure to share your finished products with us on facebook, twitter and ravelry! We love to see projects!
F540 Gold Rush Candle Jar Covers PDF Download
1 cone of Plymouth Gold Rush
Crochet hook 3.25 mm
Jar # 1 (shown on right): 6 DC = one inch. Check when you have done a few rounds of the tree pattern that it fits properly around the jar.
Jar # 2 (shown on left): 1 shell and 1 DC = one inch. Check when you have worked a few row of the shell pattern that it will fit properly around the jar.
BEGIN– BASE FOR BOTH JARS:
Ch 2. Work 6 SC into the first chain stitch. Sl st into the first SC st that you made.
Ch 1. Do not turn but work 2 SC into the same st where you joined and then continue working 2 SC into the next 5 SC. Sl st into the first SC. (12 SC.)
Ch 1 (It may be helpful to put a pin into this ch after each round so that you know where each round beg. Skip over this ch when joining rounds.) *Work 2 SC into the same st where you joined and work 1 SC into the next SC. Rep from * 5 times. Skip over the ch 1 and sl st into the first SC of the round. (18 SC)
Ch 1, Work 2 SC into the same st where you joined and work 1 SC into each of the next 2 SC. Rep from * 5 times. Join to the first SC of that round. (24 SC)
Ch 1, *Work 2 SC into the same st where you joined and work 1 SC into each of the next 3 SC. Rep from * 5 times. Join to the first SC of that round. (30 SC)
Cont in this manner working an extra SC between each inc (2 SC in the same st). When you have 8 SC between the inc, the bottom of the jar will be finished. (60 SC), This completes the base.
Jar #1 (shown on the right)
The rest of the jar cover will be worked in blocks and spaces.
Space: DC, ch 2, skip 2 sts.
Block: 3 DC.
Round 1: Ch 5. skip 2 SC (this counts as a DC and 2 ch, forming your first space.), 1 space, *1 block, 4 spaces , rep from * 2 times, 1 block, 2 spaces, sl st into the 3rd ch of the previous round.
Round 2: Rep Round 1.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as a DC), DC in each DC and 2 DC in each space, (20 blocks) sl st into the 3rd ch of the previous round.
Rounds 4 and 5: Rep Round 3. When you finish the round, sl st into the top of the ch 3 in the previous round.
Round 6: Ch 5, *3 blocks, 2 spaces, rep from *2 times, 3 blocks, 1 space, sl st into the 3rd ch of the previous round.
Rounds 7 and 8: Rep Round 6.
Round 9 and 10: Rep Round 1.
Round 11: Work 20 spaces around. Fasten off.
Jar #2: (shown on the left)
Beg shell pattern as follows:
First round: Ch 3 (counts as a DC) *skip 2 SC, 5 DC in the next SC, skip 2 SC, 1 DC in the next SC. Rep from * 8 times. Skip 2 SC, 5 DC in the next SC, skip 2 SC, sl st into the top of the ch 3 that beg the round.
All other rounds: Ch 3, 5 DC in the top of the shell in the previous round, 1 DC in the 1 DC in the previous round. End each round by working a sl st into the top of the beg chain of the previous round. When shell pattern measures 3.5” (about 10 or11 rounds), fasten off.
(IMPORTANT: not recommended for open flame. Plymouth Yarn has not tested for flammability.)
©2014 Designed by Sue Hilger for Plymouth Yarn Company. 022014cab
Category Accessories, Design/Patterns, Free Patterns, Happenings, Magazines, Plymouth Sales Reps, Plymouth Staff, TNNA, Yarn, Yarn Shops | Tags: candles,crochet,DIY,facebook,Gold Rush,hand knit,holiday,knit accessories,knitting,Minnesota shop hop,pattern,Plymouth Yarn,ravelry,twitter,Yarn,Yarn Shops
Written on April 3, 2014 at 3:10 pm, by Allison
The Summer 2014 issue of Creative Knitting is chocked full of beautiful knits, six of which are made using your favorite Plymouth Yarns. This issue is on newsstands April 8th but the digital issue is available now! Click here for details.
Won’t the kiddos look adorable in these? Little Sailor Boy and Girl are made using Cleo.
The Dayflower scarf made with Sakki
Nantucket Vest In Jeannee
Periwinkle in Happy Feet
Be sure to get your copy before they are sold out! Find a yarn shop in your area here!
Category Accessories, Design/Patterns, Happenings, Magazines, Plymouth Sales Reps, Plymouth Staff, Yarn, Yarn Shops | Tags: Cleo,creative knitting,designs,Jeannee,kid seta,knitting,magazines,patterns,Plymouth Yarn,Sakki,summer
Written on March 24, 2014 at 8:57 am, by Heidi
These booties are quick & easy to make with our newest alpaca wonder:
Baby Alpaca Cherish, which is a DK weight 50-50 Blend of Alpaca and Acrylic..that way it has the warmth and softness of Baby Alpaca, plus the durability of acrylic. GREAT IDEA and it comes in stunning colors too! I am loving this yarn….made a hat & booties from ONE ball. I hope you like my pattern, which was told to me by a dear friend named “JJ”, and I am calling them “Dutch” Booties after her. Thanks JJ.
”DUTCH” BABY BOOTIES by Heidi Sunday
Size: Newborn (6 months)
Using approx 1 oz Sport/DK weight yarn (Plymouth Baby Alpaca Cherish used in sample)
US Size 2-3 needles, two small stitch holders
Gauge: Approx 5.5-6 Stitches/7 Rows per inch
Abbreviations Used: YO: Yarn Over
SKP: Slip 1 (as if to purl), Knit 1, Pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch)
Cast on 38 (42), leaving a long tail for sewing up.
Knit 6 rows (3 ridges of garter stitch)
Work 3 rows of K1 P1 rib
Eyelet row:K1, (YO, K2tog) around, ending with K1
Work 3 rows of K1 P1 rib
K13 (14), put 13 (14) stitches just knitted on holder, K12 (14), put remaining 13 (14) stitches on holder
Working on middle 12 (14) stitches only, work in garter stitch (K all rows) for 18 (22) rows (9 (11) ridges).
Pick up 9 (11) stitches along side, K13 (K14) from holder, turn and K34 (39), pick up (purlwise is best…reach from behind stitch as if to purl when picking up stitch) 9 (11) along opposite side, K13 (14) from holder (56 (64) stitches total)
Knit 10 rows (5 ridges of garter stitch)
Heel and toe decreases:
Row 1: K5, K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K10 (12), K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K5
Row 2: Knit across row
Repeat these 2 rows three times: changing row 1 (decrease row) as follows:
K4, K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K8 (10), K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K4
K3, K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K6 (8), K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K3
K2, K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K4 (6), K2tog, K14 (17), SKP, K2
Bind off and sew back of heel and bottom together. A crocheted chain beginning and ending with a ring of 10-12 crocheted chain stitches can be used for laces. Or, use a braid or piece of ribbon. The cuff can be edged by crocheting: SC, Ch 3, SC, Ch 3, etc
Special note to pattern collectors and those with “inquiring minds”: the “baby” is wearing a hat from Ravelry, called Seventh. Her easy little topdown sweater is Encore Dynamo, Color 2, Plymouth pattern number 2649.
Written on February 20, 2014 at 8:30 am, by Vanessa
This new craze has been popping up in yarn shops and on the internet lately. Talk about instant gratification! A cowl or scarf can take a mere 10-20 minutes. Arm knitting is great for everyone— even if you have never knit before! The process of arm knitting requires no knitting needles or previous knitting knowledge. You will use your arms as the “needles”. You will need super thick yarn. We cast on either 4 sts (for a longer, skinny scarf or cowl) or 9 sts (for a wider, thicker cowl or scarf). Plymouth has some great yarns for this technique, and we have made some to show you! View our video to learn how to arm knit. Download the pdf
Colca Canyon is a really fun choice because it is a cable construction yarn that goes from thick to thin. It reminds me of a nautical fishing net! You will need only 1 skein for a gorgeous cowl. We simply made the cowl and joined the ends together with whip stitch technique and some cotton like Plymouth Fantasy Naturale or Cleo. Our cowl has 9 sts for cast on.
Scandalicious make a very very warm and eye catching cowl! It is the warmest of all the cowls because it is the widest “yarn”. You will need 2 skeins to make a cowl, and only cast on 4 sts.
Passion Nette is a good choice if you are looking for a spring accessory! The passion nette is a cotton based “yarn”, so you won’t have to worry about feeling too warm. I think the colors are just so beautiful for spring- they almost have a tydy appearance. The finished cowl reminds me of a really cool necklace. We cast on 4 sts for our cowl and used only 1 skein. We joined the cowl together into a circle with a strand of Plymouth Cleo.
Lastly, you don’t need to join the ends together for a cowl. You can have a classic scarf. The Joy Ruffle scarf we made is with 1 ball and Cast on 9 sts.
Written on February 14, 2014 at 8:30 am, by Vanessa
I am really enjoying the look of “well-loved” knits lately. Wearing something from a couple decades past, even though it isn’t particularly something bought at a vintage store, is super cool and chic. “What’s old is new” seems to be the motto!
Hand knitters can really take advantage of this theme. Purposely adding patches or embroidery to a sweater, hat, afghan or even sock can make your well loved items refreshed. Foxy Patches and Native American neckline and Take a look at these clouds
For this month, I’ve designed a patched-up guernsey-esque pullover in lovely Grignasco Loden. I love how the tweedy fleck in the Loden matches all the colors I’ve used– the grey tweed has bits of gold and blue. The yellow and blue have a hazy tan/grey to it. They were meant to be together! The Loden creates a delightfully soft tweedy fabric with a hint of a halo.
Where to start? Your sweater is like a blank canvas. The best way to begin embellishing your knit is to sit down and plan out the space. Draw a couple sketches, swatch, until you are satisfied. I made had a couple patches (some in seed and some in garter) and had a pretty good idea where they would go on the pullover. Once sewn in place, I felt like something was missing at the bottom of the sweater. I knit up a floral arrangement of a vine and leaves and stitched it into place. It truly has a whimsical feel, much like the picture knits of the 80s.
To Fit Women’s Size: S, (M, L, XL, XXL, XXXL)
Approx. Finished Chest: 36”, (40, 44, 48, 52, 56)
Length: 24”, (24 ½, 25, 25 ½, 26, 26 ½)
Sleeve Length (from underarm): 18 ½” (all sizes)
8, (10, 11, 12, 13, 14)—50G balls, color 590 MC Grey
1, (1, 1, 2, 2, 2)—50G balls, color 603 CC1 Yellow
1, (1, 1, 2, 2, 2)—50G balls, color 809 CC2 Blue
Gauge: 18 sts, 22 rows= 4” in st st on US size 7 (4.5mm) needles,
18 sts, 28 rows= 4” in double moss st on US size 7 (4.5mm) needles,
18 sts, 40 rows= 4” in garter st (k every row) on US size 7 (4.5mm) needles,
20 sts= 4” in seed cable st & 2×2 ribbing on US size 7 (4.5mm) needles.
Needles/Notions: US Size 7 (4.5mm)- 16 & 32” circular
needle, set of US Size 7 (4.5mm) DPNs, 2 stitch
markers (m), 4 removable markers (m), 3 stitch holders, cable needle.
Pattern is written for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parenthesis. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
When working the Seed Cable St, work either chart or written instructions. If following the chart, work RS Rows from right to left, and WS Rows from left to right.
Pullover body and sleeves are worked in the round until the armholes.
Double Moss St (Multiple of 2 sts + 1)
Rows 1 and 4: K1, *p1, k1; rep from * across.
Rows 2 and 3: P1, *k1, p1; rep from * across.
Rep these 4 rows for pattern st.
Seed Cable St (Multiple of 9 sts + 5)
Row 1 (RS): *(P1, k1)2x, p1, C2F, C2B: rep from * to last 5 sts, (p1, k1)2x, p1.
Rows 2 and 4: K2, p1, k2, *p4, k2, p1, k2; rep from *.
Row 3: (p1, k1)2x, p1, k4; rep from * to last 5 sts (p1, k1) 2x, p1.
Rep these 4 rows for pattern st.
With 32” circular needle and MC, CO 180, (200, 220, 240, 260, 280) sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. PM to mark beg of round. Work in 2×2 rib (k2 sts, p2 sts) for 3”. K across next row, dec 18, (20, 22, 24, 26, 28) sts evenly across. 162, (180, 198, 216, 234, 252) sts. Place another m to mark the halfway point of the round.
Work in st st (k every row) until body measures 17” from CO edge, ending 11, (15, 16, 20, 20, 21) sts before the end of the last round.
Shape Armhole: BO 22, (30, 32, 40, 40, 42) sts- removing the m as you get to it, k to 11, (15, 16, 20, 20, 21) sts before next m, BO 22, (30, 32, 40, 40, 42) sts- removing the m as you get to it, k to end of row.
59, (60, 67, 68, 77, 84) sts for each section. You will now be working just on the Back section.
Place the other 59, (60, 67, 68, 77, 84) sts onto a holder.
Turn so that WS is facing. Work back and forth in rows in st st (p1 row, k1 row) for 2”, end having worked a k row. P across next row, inc 9, (8, 10, 9, 9, 11) sts evenly across. 68, (68, 77, 77, 86, 95) sts.
Beg working in Seed Cable st. When armhole measures 6”, (6 ½, 7, 7 ½, 8, 8 ½), work neck shaping as follows:
Neck Shaping: Pattern to center 26, (26, 27, 27, 28, 29) sts, place those center sts onto a holder, attach another strand of yarn, pattern to end of row. 21, (21, 25, 25, 29, 33) sts for each shoulder.
Working both sides at once, dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row 5 times—5 sts dec’d for each shoulder.
16, (16, 20, 20, 24, 28) sts rem for each shoulder. Place sts onto a holder.
With WS facing, rejoin MC & p across all 59, (60, 67, 68, 77, 84) sts on holder. Work neck shaping row same as for back when armhole measures 4”, (4 ½, 5, 5 ½, 6, 6 ½). 16, (16, 20, 20, 24, 28) sts rem for each front.
Work even until front measures same as back. “Kitchener st” or “3 needle BO” the back and front sts together.
With DPNs and MC, CO 36, (36, 40, 40, 40, 40) sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist and PM. Work in 2×2 rib (k2 sts, p2 sts) for 2”. Beg working in st st (K every row) for 2” more. Inc 1 st before and after the m on next and foll 5th, (4th, 4th, 4th, 3rd, 3rd) round 14, (16, 16, 18, 21, 24) times total—28, (32, 32, 36, 42, 48) sts inc’d.
64, (68, 72, 76, 82, 88) sts. Work even in st st until sleeve measures 18 ½” from CO edge. Place a removable m at each end of next round. You will now beg working in rows in st st. Cont to work another 2 ½”, (3 ½, 3 ¾, 4 ½, 4 ½, 4 ¾). BO all sts on next round. Make another sleeve.
Double Moss Patches
Left Front Patch (applied just below the body rib)
With CC2 and 16” circular, CO 29, (31, 33, 35, 37, 39) sts.
Work in double moss st for 6”, (6 ½, 7, 7 ½, 8, 8½). BO all sts on next row.
Right Sleeve Patch (applied around elbow)
With CC2, CO 19 sts.
Work in double moss st for 5”. BO all sts on next row.
Right Front/Back Patch (applied ½ toward the back and ½ toward the front, just above the armhole)
With CC1 and 16” circular, CO 40, (46, 50, 54, 58, 64) sts.
Work in garter st (k every row) for 3 ½”, (4, 4 ½, 5, 5 ½, 6). BO all sts on next row.
Left Sleeve Patch (applied just above the sleeve rib)
With CC1 and 16” circular, CO 14 sts.
Work in garter st (k every row) for 2 ½”. BO all sts on next row.
Block body and sleeves to measurements. Set in the sleeves (from the m) into the armholes.
Neck Rib: With 16” circular, MC, and RS facing, pick up and k15 sts along the left front neck to front holder, k26, (26, 27, 27, 28, 29) sts from front holder- dec 1, (1, 0, 0, 1, 0) st, k15 sts along the right front neck to shoulder, k6 sts from the back neck to holder, k26, (26, 27, 27, 28, 29) sts from the back neck-dec 1, (1, 0, 0, 1, 0) st, k6 sts from the back neck. PM to m beg of round. 92, (92, 96, 96, 96, 100) sts.
Work in 2×2 rib (k2 sts, p2 sts) for 1”. BO all sts in rib on next round.
Sew the patches to their designated areas if you so desire- or place them wherever you like. Use a basting st along the edges of the patches in either CC1 or CC2 to add extra contrast/texture if you desire.
(make 1 each in CC1 & CC2) With DPNs, CO 13 sts.
Row 1 (WS): K6, p1, k6.
Row 2: K5, sl2, k1, p2sso, k5—2 sts dec’d. 11 sts.
Row 3: K5, p1, k5.
Row 4: K4, sl2, k1, p2sso, k4—2 sts dec’d. 9 sts.
Row 5: K4, p1, k4.
Row 6: K3, sl2, k1, p2sso, k3—2 sts dec’d. 7 sts.
Row 7: K3, p1, k3.
Row 8: K2, sl2, k1, p2sso, k2—2 sts dec’d. 5 sts.
Row 9: K2, p1, k2.
Row 10: K1, sl2, k1, p2sso, k1—2 sts dec’d. 3 sts.
Row 11: K1, p1, k1.
Row 12: Sl2, k1, p2sso, cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
(make 2 with CC1 & 1 with CC2) With DPNs, CO 5 sts.
Row 1 and all WS Rows: P all sts.
Row 2: K2, yo, k1, yo, k2—2 sts inc’d. 7 sts.
Row 4: K3, yo, k1, yo, k3—2 sts inc’d. 9 sts.
Row 6: K4, yo, k1, yo, k4—2 sts inc’d. 11 sts.
Row 8: K5, yo, k1, yo, k5—2 sts inc’d. 13 sts.
Row 10: K all sts.
Row 12: Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d. 11 sts. Rep Row 11 and 12– 4 times more—8 sts dec’d. 3 sts rem.
Next RS Row: Sl1, k2tog, psso, Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
With a double strand of CC2, make a chain st across the front of the pullover. Arrange the leaves and sew them onto the front (as shown in the photo). Weave in all ends.
©2014 Plymouth Yarn Company. 021014vle
ABBREVIATIONS: beg= begin(ning), BO= bind off, C2B= sl 1 st to cable needle and hold to back, k1, k1 from cable needle, C2F= sl 1 st to cable needle and hold to front, k1, k1 from cable needle, CC= contrast color, CO= cast on, cont= continue, dec= decrease, DPNs= double pointed needles, foll= following, inc= increase, k = knit, m=marker, MC= main color, p = purl, PM= place marker, p2sso= pass 2 slipped sts over, psso= pass slipped st over, rep= repeat(ing), RS= right side, sl = slip, SSK = slip 1 st as if to knit, slip a second st as if to knit, knit them together through the back loop, st(s) = stitch(es), st st = stockinette st, tbl = through back loop, tog = together, WS = Wrong Side, yo = yarn over