Plymouth Yarn Company Blog

Encore Worsted Women’s Draped Cardigan

Monday, October 15th, 2012

One of my favorite things to do as a designer is to revamp Plymouth’s vast collection of classic yarns. Take Encore Worsted, for example. This yarn has been around since I was a little girl running around my mom’s yarn shop. Knitters were mostly picking out Encore for afghans, kids sweaters, and toys. Now, don’t get me wrong; Encore is terrific for all of these knits. But I think many people overlook this yarns vibrant colors (thanks acrylic!), it’s fluffy softness (thank you wool!), and durability.

Let me show you my newest creation using Encore Worsted. My draped cardigan is basically rectangle worked from side to side. The “afterthought” armhole stitches are picked up later and knit to an elbow length sleeve. Did anyone say layering?! The pattern stitch used along the hemline of the cardigan is an easy to memorize 6 row repeat.

I hope you all enjoy my cheerful design in a Plymouth classic. –Vanessa

 

Pattern F473

Encore Worsted Women’s Draped Cardigan

View as a pdf

To Fit Women’s Size: S, (M, L, XL, XXL)
Shoulder to Shoulder Measurement (across back): 12 ¼”, (12 ¾, 14, 14 ½, 15)
Length: 23”, (24 ¾, 26 ¾, 28 ¾, 31 ¼)
Sleeve Length: 14”

Materials:
Encore Worsted: 5, (5, 6, 6, 7)—100G balls, color 0473 Light Aqua
Gauge:  20 sts, 28 rows = 4” on size 7s over st st, 16 sts= 4” in 2×2 rib on size 7s (slightly stretched), 24 sts= 5” in pattern stitch on size 7s.
Needles:  Size US 7 long circular and double points, stitch markers, scrap yarn

Pattern Stitch (Multiple of 18 sts + 6)
Row 1 (RS): p1, k2, yo, ssk, p1, *k4, k2tog, yo, ssk, k4, p1, k2, yo, ssk, p1; rep from * across.
Row 2: k1, p2, yo, p2tog, k1, *p3, p2togtbl, drop the yo of previous row, (yo)2x, p2tog, p3, k1, p2, yo, p2tog, k1; rep from * across.
Row 3: p1, k2, yo, ssk, p1, *k2, k2tog, drop the yo’s of the previous row, (yo)3x, ssk, k2, p1, k2, yo, ssk, p1; rep from * across.
Row 4: k1, p2, yo, p2tog, k1, *p1, p2togtbl, drop the yo’s of the previous row, (yo)4x, p2tog, p1, k1, p2, yo, p2tog, k1; rep from * across.
Row 5: p1, k2, yo, ssk, p1, *k2tog, drop the yo’s of the previous row, cast on 4 sts onto right hand needle, k1 under the 4 loose strands of the dropped yo’s, yo, k1 under the 4 strands again, cast on 4 sts onto right hand needle, ssk, p1, k2, yo, ssk, p1; rep from * across.
Row 6: k1, p2, yo, p2tog, k1, *p5, p2tog, p6, k1, p2, yo, p2tog, k1; rep from * across.
Repeat these 6 rows for pattern.

Pattern is written for smallest size, with larger sizes in parenthesis. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Cardigan is made all in one piece, without seams. Afterthought armholes are set in place with scrap yarn, and picked up and knit in the round after the body of the cardigan is finished.

Body (starting with left front)
(sl the first stitch of every row)
With circular needle, Cast on 86, (90, 94, 98, 102) sts.
Row 1 (WS): p2, *k2, p2; rep from * across.
Row 2: k2, *p2, k2; rep from * across.
Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more. (8 rows total).
Increase Row (WS): (p2, k2)2x, p across to last 8 sts- increasing 18, (19, 20, 21, 22) sts evenly across to last 8 sts, (k2, p2)2x. 104, (109, 114, 119, 124) sts.
Pattern Setup Row (RS): (k2, p2)2x, pm, work row 1 of pattern stitch across 42 sts, pm, k last 8 sts, (p2, k2)2x.
Next Row (WS): (p2, k2)2x, p to m, sl m, work next row of pattern stitch to m, sl m, (k2, p2)2x.
Next Row (RS): (k2, p2)2x, sl m, work next row of pattern stitch to m, sl m, k to last 8 sts, (p2, k2)2x.
Repeat the last 2 rows, progressing in the pattern stitch. When piece measures 11”, (11 ¾, 12 ¾, 13 ¾, 15 ¼), end having worked a WS Row.
Sleeve Row (RS): work in established pattern to second marker, sl m, (mark this area as the underarm), then with scrap yarn- k38, (40, 43, 45, 48) sts, cut scrap yarn (leaving a tail), place these 38, (40, 43, 45, 48) sts back onto the left hand needle and continue across row as established with main yarn.
Repeat sleeve row once more when piece measures 12 ¼”, (12 ¾, 14, 14 ½, 15) from previous sleeve row. Then, work even until piece measures 11”, (11¾, 12 ¾, 13 ¾, 15 ¼) from last sleeve row, end having worked a WS Row.
Decrease Row (RS): (remove markers as you get to them) (k2, p2)2x, k across to last 8 sts- decreasing so that there are 86, (90, 94, 98, 102) sts on the needles altogether, (k2, p2)2x.
Row 1 (WS): p2, *k2, p2; rep from * across.
Row 2: k2, *p2, k2; rep from * across.
Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more. (8 rows total). Bind off in rib on next row to match cast on rows tension.

Sleeves
Unpick the scrap yarn from one sleeve and divide the sts (from both the top and bottom) onto double points. 76, (80, 86, 90, 96) sts.
Join yarn at the underarm and pm.
Decrease 1 st before and after the underarm marker
every 5th, (4th, 4th, 3rd, 3rd) round 15, (17, 19, 21, 23)
times. 46, (46, 48, 48, 50) sts. Continue to work in st st until sleeve measures 12 ¾” from beginning of sleeve. Knit across next round, decreasing 10, (10, 8, 8, 10) sts evenly across. 36, (36, 40, 40, 40) sts.
Work in 2×2 ribbing for 9 rounds. Bind off all sts on next round. Repeat for the other sleeve.
Weave in all ends. Block lightly.

©2012 Plymouth Yarn Company. Designed by Vanessa Ewing. Modeled by Cia Abbott Bullemer. 092512vle

 

ABBREVIATIONS: dec = decrease, inc = increase, k = knit, pm= place marker, psso = pass slip stitch over,  p = purl, RS= right side, sl = slip,  SSK =  slip 1 st as if to knit, slip a second st as if to knit, knit them together through the back loop, st(s) = stitch(es), st st = stockinette st,  tbl = through back loop,  tog = together,  WS = Wrong Side, yo = yarn over, wyif = with yarn in front, wyib = with yarn in back

 

Fashion Show

Friday, November 18th, 2011

We were very happy to be part of the Vogue Knitting recent Vogue Knitting Live event.

Design!

Tuesday, September 8th, 2009

It has now been several weeks since I started at Plymouth Yarn Company. I’ve been working closely with Creative Director JoAnne. Many of my patterns have been designed and made. It has been so thrilling to see the final product! The process to go from idea to finished pattern is definitely not short. I wanted to talk about the basics of how a pattern is made.
I usually get my ideas late at night, between half awake and almost in dream land. My sketch pad is right by my bed side just because of this! Usually my ideas come from what I observe in nature and from the past. I love mixing modern and new together to form a completely new and joyous knit; a hand knit that looks as much fun to make as it is to wear. I’ll sketch several versions of the knit I have in mind, tweaking each one… perhaps changing the trim width, making the collar larger or smaller, working on the stitch details. I’ll swatch the stitches I plan on using from my sketch with the yarn I have in mind. Sometimes, the swatch I make is perfect. However, sometimes it takes practice to perfect that one stitch. Like a fellow knit designer once said, “It takes many frogs to make the perfect prince.”
Once I have the perfect stitching and the best silhouette, I begin the process of technical design. This is where the mathematics become involved. Many options and questions need to be chosen and answered. Like, how fitted is this knit? What sizes are available? Is this tunic, standard, or cropped length? Once all of these questions are answered I can get down to the knitty gritty. I calculate the gauge and work it into the sizes and stitch pattern. Next, I tweak the pattern so that if selvedge stitches are needed, then they are added… or if a particular increase/decrease is not attractive with this garment, I will research a different or more attractive way to shape. If a pattern is really unusual, say a puffed sleeve with pleats, I usually will make the sleeve just to make sure the drape is enough and the pleats/shaping occurs precisely where I want it to.
Are you still with me? After all that is done, and the math is checked for accuracy, I pass the working pattern onto my trusty test knitters. They make the prototype garment and let me know of any changes that need to be made, or something that needs tweaking. At this point, I work very closely with the knitters and it is important that we understand what the finished product needs to be. This is so important, to help keep the integrity of the design as well as the future look of the finished knit. After the knit is finished, JoAnne and I schedule a photo shoot. Then the best pictures are chosen out of each set to ensure the best look for the knit as well best definition for stitch details. The pattern is ready, the picture is ready, and they are merged into a beautiful finished product.