It’s that wonderful time of year again- a mixture of joy and panic for the holiday season. What do I mean by this? Specifically, the joy of seeing family, eating pies, cakes and delectables; all the while listening to the sounds of the season. In contrast, panic settles in because I may have under-budgeted my knitting and crafting time (ha! whats new?!) Thus, I begin to realize I may have to forgo one of my many gift-giving ideas.
With that being said, there is a truly special gift you can give that will be used every year, since it doubles as useful and ornamental!
I present…the obligatory Christmas Stocking.
Truly, a stocking can be made year-round, yet I always find myself in the mood to knit them this time of year. There is nothing quite like a handmade stocking, and they can be customized to suit your holiday theme in your home. Imagine hot pink and orange for a modern-colorful Christmas, or cream and brown for a rustic-lodge kind of Christmas. This is a large part of why we craft, isn’t it? Customization.
So, even if your knitting list seems daunting and never-ending… imagine the smile you can give to yourself year after year when you unearth the ornaments and baubles from your holiday decorating stash trove, to find a Christmas stocking that you took the time to make for your home and family.
Our Christmas Stocking Trio is knit in Homestead, a true aran 100% wool. It blocks wonderfully, so even if your intarsia colorwork skills aren’t quite where you’d like them to be, you can steam the stitches and they will all uniformly move into place. You can mix and match the colors of Homestead Tweed, too, for a rustic addition. One skein of each color is needed for any one of the stockings.
This pattern is a gift from Plymouth Yarn Company to you…wishing you happy and safe holidays.
Scarves don’t have to be heavy and cumbersome. A new trend that I’ve noticed in ready to wear is adorn your spring and summer wardrobes with fashion scarves. The scarves can be skinny, about 3″ wide, though I have seen some wider scarves that are about 7″ wide. They all have one thing in commong- they are lightweight and wispy. They are knit looser than you normally would knit the fabric, which creates a lot of drape, and keeps the scarves from being too overwhelming.
Here are some skinny scarf designs that we have designed at Plymouth. Click the photo to be taken to the pattern.
With the Fall season upon us, I want to tell you about a new exciting yarn we have at Plymouth.
Mushishi Big is a lofty wool silk blend with long stretches of color. The variations of white silk slubs throughout the softly spun woolen are whimsical and provide depth to this multi-faceted chunky weight.
(Psst, this is a BIG brother to our popular yarn, Mushishi.)
I designed a pair of boot toppers that feature a variation of a stitch called the “Umbrella Stitch.” The undulating nature of the stitch creates a stylish curvature around your calves. The bottom ribbed part of the boot topper will fit snuggly against your legs and provide extra cushion and warmth. It is important you bind off with a nice stretchy method- I like “Jeny’s stretchy bind off” or “tubular bind off” method. Do you have a favorite stretchy bind off method?
I think these would look equally cute with a pair of cowboy boots. Enjoy this free pattern using our new fall yarn!
I dug through my stash but I couldn’t find any roving laying around (how is that possible? I am ashamed to call myself a yarn stasher :)). But, because necessity is the mother of invention, I realized I had everything I needed when I pulled out some complimentary colors of Galway Roving.
I followed the directions on the blog, but used 4 strands of Galway Roving held together in place of using the actual roving. It took 2 full balls of the Tan and a little more than 2 balls of the Grey.
I do like the results, and the finished pillow is so soft and fluffy!
Our Galway Worsted weight yarn has been in the Plymouth family for a long time. I remember being a teenager, working at my mom’s yarn shop, and selling galway during the felted bag craze. Fun times! It was the perfect yarn for most projects- a durable, 4-ply (feltable) worsted weight with many colors and excellent yardage (210 yards for 100 Grams, to be exact.) It was well loved for fairisle projects, cabling, and held up well to pilling and wear. Oh! And who remembers Galway in a hank?
We’ve expanded the Galway yarn in more than one direction recently. I’ll talk about only one today…..but stay tuned for a smaller (hint hint) Galway version in my next post.
Galway ROVING! Galway Roving is new to Plymouth- it is a singly ply bulky weight yarn that knits up at 2.5 sts= 1″ on a size 15 (10mm) needle.
We love it for chunky weight accessories and outdoorsy kind of knits.
Please enjoy the free pattern for this drop stitch cable cowl. It requires only 3 balls and an evening or two to make. The cowl is worked flat and then stitches are dropped to make a looser, less dense fabric. The ends are then sewn together to make a cowl-loop. Super fun and stylish! Download the free pattern
Long striping yarns have so many possibilities. Take our Grignasco Revel, for instance. Revel is a single-ply roving that softly transitions from color to color. Whether you are making a classic garter stitch cowl or working in a modular form, this yarn is so pleasing to the touch. We think this yarn is perfectly blended with 85% Baby Alpaca for a plush drape and 15% Merino Wool for smooth stability. Revel drapes the best in your most delicate of knit and crochet patterns. We’ve even blended it with our luscious mohair/silk blend for a truly textural cardigan.
Revel and Kid Seta or Kid Gloss Pattern 2656 designed by Cia Bullemer
For this month, I have designed a new triangular kerchief in Revel. The mini shawl requires only 1 ball of yarn and an evening or two to make. Worked all in garter st, the kerchief is worked modularly from the center triangle. You won’t need to be an expert to make this- knowledge of the knit stitch as well as simple decreases and increases are all that is required. Please enjoy my newest design! –Vanessa
Approximate Blocked Dimensions:
40” wingspan x 20” deep
Revel: 1—50G ball, shown in color 19 Purple/Red
Gauge: 21 sts, 29 rows= 4” in garter st (k every row) on US Size 7 (4.5mm) needles after blocking.
Needles/Notions: 2- US Size 7 (4.5mm)- 24” circular needles or size to obtain gauge, 3 st markers (m)
The shawl is worked in modular pieces, starting with Part 1 and ending with Part 6.
CO 4 sts. K6 rows in garter st, do not turn on last row. Instead, pick up and k3 sts along the side edge of the piece, pick up and k4 sts along the CO edge—11 sts total on needle.
Row 1 (WS): K2, pm, k4, pm, k3, pm, k2.
Row 2 (RS): K2, sl m, m1, k to m, m1, sl m, k1, m1, k to m, m1, sl m, k2—4 sts inc’d. 15 sts on needle.
Row 3: K across all sts.
Rep the last 2 rows 23 times more—92 sts inc’d. 107 sts on needle.
Next Row (RS): K2, remove m, m1, k to m, m1, sl m, k1, m1, k to m, m1, remove m, k2—4 sts inc’d.
111 sts on needle. Cut yarn, leaving a 4” tail for weaving in, and set aside (leave the sts on the circular.)
With the second circular needle, CO 3 sts.
Row 1 (WS): K across all sts.
Row 2 (RS): K2, m1, k to end—1 st inc’d. 4 sts on needle.
Rep last 2 rows 27 times more–27 sts inc’d. 31 sts on needle.
(In this part, you will be joining part 1 and 2 tog. With WS of both parts facing, transfer Part 1 sts to left-hand tip of needle holding Part 2 sts.
Row 1 (WS): K30 sts of Part 2, k2tog, joining last st of Part 2 and first st of Part 1, turn.
Row 2 (RS): K to end of row.
Row 3 (WS): K30, k2tog, joining last st of Part 2 and first st of Part 1, turn.
Rep the last 2 rows 53 times more, end having worked row 3 (a WS Row)—you will end 1 st before the center m of part 1. Sl all sts back to first circular needle. Cut yarn (leaving a 4” tail for weaving in) and set aside.
CO 3 sts.
Row 1 (WS): K across.
Row 2 (RS): K to last 2 sts, m1, k2—1 sts inc’d. 4 sts on needle.
Row 3 (WS): K across.
Rep last 2 rows 26 more times—26 sts inc’d. 30 sts on needle.
(In this part, you will be joining Part 4 with Parts 1, 2 and 3.)
Row 1 (RS): K to m, m1, remove m, k1, ssk joining last st of Part 4 with first st of the original Part 1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): K to end of row.
Row 3 (RS): K30, ssk joining last st of Part 4 with first st of the original Part 1, turn.
Rep the last 2 rows 53 times more, then work row 2 (a WS Row) once more.
31 sts from Part 5, 31 sts from Part 3, and 1 st from Part 1 rem on needle. 63 sts on needle.
(You will now be making a center diamond with Parts 5, 3, and 1.)
Row 1 (RS): (Remove m when you get to it) K30, sl2, k1, p2sso, k30—2 sts dec’d. 61 sts on needle.
Row 2: K all sts.
Row 3 (RS): K to 1 st before center st, sl2, k1, p2sso, k to end of row—2 sts dec’d. 59 sts on needle.
Rep the last 2 rows 28 times more—56 sts dec’d.
3 sts rem. K 1 row. Sl2, k1, p2sso- cut yarn and draw through last st.
ABBREVIATIONS: beg= begin(ning), BO= bind off, CO= cast on, m= marker, m1= with left hand needle, pick up the bar between left and right needle from front to back, knit this stitch through the back loop, pm= place marker, p2sso= pass 2 slipped stitches over, p = purl, RS= right side, sl = slip, SSK = slip 1 st as if to knit, slip a second st as if to knit, knit them together through the back loop, st(s) = stitch(es), st st = stockinette st, tbl = through back loop, tog = together, WS = Wrong Side, yo = yarn over
It’s no secret- I love wool. I adore it all year round- when it is 90 degrees outside I sit in the air conditioning and knit knit knit! Nothing compares to the bounce and body you get from wool- whether knitting stockinette stitch, fairisle, and (a personal favorite of mine) cables.
Wearing wool, however, makes me super itchy. I have been blessed (ha…) with super sensitive skin. I can’t wear many wools next to my skin because of this. I was so excited when I discovered that the Grignasco line had a beautiful yarn with cotton and wool– Springfield Vintage. Imagine your favorite, most comfortable shirt- breathable, easy to wear, and holds its shape. Springfield Vintage offers this and more! It is a tightly spun dk weight that is smooth, soft, and has a slight sheen. The colors of the yarn resemble a worn vintage item with subtle color variation.
For those of you still in summer knitting mode or wanting to begin on next season’s fall fashions… you’ll love my newest design. My pullover is a romantic off-the shoulder, top down raglan. The cinched in cable-smocked waist ties in with the cables cascading down the raglan shaping. An easy to wear piece for the end of the summer into fall.
Materials: Springfield Vintage: 6, (7, 8, 9, 10, 11)—50G balls, color 9626 Powder Blue
Gauge: 22 sts, 30 rows= 4” in st st on US size 6 (4mm) needles, 9 sts= 1 ½” in cable pattern on US size 6 (4mm) needles.
Needles: US Size 4 (3.5mm)-24” circular, US Size 6 (4mm)- 24” & 32” circular needles & size 6 (4mm) double points, 4 st markers (m), stitch holders, cable needle, Thin elastic in a clear or matching color to the yarn- approximately 30 yards.
Cable Pattern (Multiple of 7 sts + 2)
Rounds 1, 3, 4 and 5: P2, *k5, p2; rep from *
Round 2: P2, *sl 4 sts to cable needle and hold to back, k1, sl the last 3 sts from cable needle onto left hand needle, placing the last st on the cable needle to the front- with the working yarn to the left of the st, k3, k1 from cable needle, p2; rep from *
Round 6: P2, *k5, p2; rep from *
Rep these 6 rounds for cable pattern.
Pattern is written for smallest size, with larger sizes in parenthesis. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. Pullover is worked in the round from the neck down.
With smaller 24” length circular, CO using long tail method and 1 strand of elastic with the Springfield Yarn, 154 sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. PM.
Rib Round: *K1, p1; rep from * around. Rep this round 3 times more. Cut and secure the elastic.
Switch to larger 24” circular.
Raglan Setup: K10 (top of sleeve), pm, work 9 sts in cable pattern, k49 sts, work 9 sts in cable pattern (front), pm, k10 (top of sleeve), pm, work 9 sts in cable pattern, k49 sts, work 9 sts in cable pattern (back).
Increase Round: *K1, m1, k to 1 st before m, m1, k1, sl m, work 9 sts in cable pattern, k1, m1, k to 10 sts before m, m1, k1, work 9 sts in cable pattern, sl m; rep from * once more—8 sts inc’d. 162 sts.
Next Round: K across all sts, working the next round of the cable pattern across the cable sts.
Rep the last 2 rounds 14, (17, 21, 24, 28, 32) times more – Switch to longer circular needle when necessary.
112, (136, 168, 192, 224, 256) sts inc’d.
274, (298, 330, 354, 386, 418) sts total-
40, (46, 54, 60, 68, 76) sts for each sleeve +
97, (103, 111, 117, 125, 133) sts for each front and back.
Separate Sleeves from Body
(remove m as you get to them except the beg of the round m. The cables will now be divided in half and become part of the sleeve sts.) unknit 5 sts from previous round- placing these sts back onto the left hand needle, *Sl next 50, (56, 64, 70, 78, 86) sts onto a st holder for sleeve, CO 10, (12, 14, 16, 18, 20) sts onto right hand needle, k87, (93, 101, 107, 115, 123) sts; rep from * once more. 194, (210, 230, 246, 266, 286) sts on needle. Cont to work in st st for 12 ¼”, (12 ¾, 13, 13, 13, 13).
Dec 31, (33, 32, 34, 33, 32) sts evenly across next round. 163, (177, 198, 212, 233, 254) sts.
Beg working in cable pattern across all sts.
When cable pattern measures 2 ½”, BO all in k on next round loosely.
RS facing, Sl 50, (56, 64, 70, 78, 86) sts from the st holder onto double points, rejoin yarn & pick up and k 10, (12, 14, 16, 18, 20) sts from the underarm section- placing a m in the middle of the underarm sts to mark center of underarm. 60, (68, 78, 86, 96, 106) sts.
Beg working in st st, dec 1 st before and after the underarm m every 5th, (4th, 3rd, 3rd, 3rd, 2nd) round 5, (6, 8, 10, 10, 12) times. 50, (52, 56, 62, 66, 76, 82) sts.
Cont to work in st st until sleeve measures 4 ¼” from Separate Sleeves from Body.
Rib Round: *K1, p1; rep from * around.
Rep this round for 2 ¾” BO all sts in k on next round loosely. Rep for the other sleeve.
Weave in all ends. Block to measurements.
Many years ago, felting seemed to take over the knitting community. I would spend evenings with two of my friends, Amy and Gloria, working on knit and crochet backpacks, flowers, beads, petals, and hats to be felted. I remember in particular a large felt tote I made using super chunky wool and a lattice design. The bag was so large that I could actually sit in it (yes, comfortably!) before felting.
The magical part of felting was that it appealed to beginner and advanced knitters alike. Beginner knitters didn’t have to have perfect tension or wonderful seaming abilities. Pretty much any mistake could be hidden once the knit was felted. Advanced knitters could appreciate the smooth and rewarding fabric from doing intricate shaping or colorwork (think tartans and plaids!).
Felting is asking for a resurgence. I have designed for the month of June a felt hand bag that uses a fun, easy to memorize motif: the triangle. Plymouth Yarn’s Gina is a 100% wool roving yarn that has a delicious stripey color transition. Gina really makes the construction of the triangles POP. You won’t need to change colors, tie in ends, or any of the normal striping techniques for this yarn. It does the work for you- and it will keep you interested in knitting the bag just to see what color will come out of the ball next.
Are you going on any road trips this summer?I will be going to the shore several time this summer, and this will be an enjoyable travel companion to my car ride.
10” wide 10” tall
(not including handle)
Materials: Gina: 3—50G balls, color 11 Spring Flowers
Gauge: 16 sts, 16 rows= 4” in st st on size 10 (6mm) needles (before felting),
5” x 5” = 1 triangle, before and after felting.
Needles: US Size 10 (6mm) DPNs (double pointed needles), stitch marker, yarn needle for sewing.
CO 66 sts, placing 22 sts each onto 3 DPNs.
Join in the round, being careful not to twist. PM. K one round.
Round 1: *Ssk, k to last 2 sts on DPN, k2tog; rep from * twice more. (6 sts decreased)- 60 sts.
Repeat the last round until there are 6 sts remaining- 2 sts on each needle. Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts. Fasten off.
Make 11 more triangles. Make 2 hexagon motifs by working a small (not too bulky selvedge) mattress stitch- stitching 6 triangles together. Set aside.
CO 14 sts onto a DPN. Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 25”- this “gusset” will go around the perimeter of the bag.
Rows 1, 3, 5, 7 (WS): P all sts
Rows 2, 6: K all sts.
Row 4: Sl 5 sts to spare DPN and hold to front, k5, k5 from DPN, k4.
Row 8: K4, sl 5 sts to spare DPN and hold to back, k5, k5 from DPN. Repeat these 8 rows for braided strap until desired length- ours is approximately 26” + 25” for the gusset. End having worked row 3 of cable. BO in k on next row.
Sew the 25” of the gusset’s sides to the sides of the hexagons. Sew the CO and BO edges of the strap together- making sure there isn’t a twist in the strap.
Felting: Gina felts quickly and easily by hand.
Fill your sink with hot soapy water so that the bag is just submerged. Using your hands (put on some rubber gloves to protect them from the heat!) agitate the hand bag, rubbing it against the sides of the sink and against itself. You can shock the bag by running it in some very cold water to help merge the fibers together, but it isn’t mandatory. When the stitches of the handbag have disappeared and the bag has stiffened a bit from felting, wring out the excess water and roll in a towel to get most of the moisture out. Shape and let air dry.
ABBREVIATIONS: BO= bind off, CO= cast on, dec= decrease, DPN= double pointed needle(s), k = knit, m= marker, pm= place marker, psso= pass slipped stitch over, p = purl, RS= right side, sl = slip,SSK =slip 1 st as if to knit, slip a second st as if to knit, knit them together through the back loop, st(s) = stitch(es), st st = stockinette st, tbl = through back loop,tog = together,WS = Wrong Side, yo = yarn over, wyif = with yarn in front, wyib = with yarn in back.
Oversized knits are everywhere! Large sweaters and shrugs don’t need to be heavy. Soft, billowy yarns and stitches have been gracing the runways for several seasons. Plymouth Baby Alpaca Aire is a chainette constructed, 100% baby alpaca yarn; all the warmth and loft but no heft. Most of the colors are in heathered tones, making them easy to mix and match with many colors in your wardrobe. My shrug and slouch hat are made in a simple Brioche stitch. The shrug is basically a rectangle with armholes; the only shaping (with short rows) is at the collar.
With our blistery fall in full swing, it is a nice time to cozy up to your knitting! –Vanessa
Hat Circumference: 21 ½”, (22 ½) Shrug to Fit Ladies: S/M, (L/XL) Shrug from sleeve to sleeve: 46”, (50)
Materials: Baby Alpaca Aire:
2, (2)—100G balls, color 5011 for Hat
6, (7)—100G balls, color 5011 for Shrug Gauge: 16 sts, 24 rows= 4” in st st on size 9, 3.75 sts= 1” in brioche stitch on size 9. Needles: US size 9 straight needles and long circular (for collar of shrug) and short circular (for hat rib), 4 stitch markers.
Brioche Stitch (Multiple of 2 sts)
Note: Work slip sts with yarn in back.
Row 1 (WS): *k1, yo, sl1; rep from * across.
Row 2: k1, *sl the yo st, k2; rep from *, ending with sl yo st, k1.
Row 3: *yo, sl1, k2tog, (the yo st and the next st); rep from * across.
Row 4: *k2, sl the yo st; rep from * across.
Row 5: *k2tog (the yo st and the next st), yo, sl1; rep from * across.
Row 6: k1, *sl the yo st, k2; rep from *, ending with sl yo st, k1.
Repeat rows 3-6 for pattern.
Pattern is written for smallest size, with larger size in parenthesis. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
Cast on 80, (84) sts.
Work in Brioche stitch for 7”, (7½), end having worked a WS Row.
(There will actually be 120, (126) strands of yarn on top of the needle in brioche stitch; this is ok!)
Next Row (RS): *k1, k2tog; rep from * across. 80, (84) sts.
Row 1: pf&b, p to end of row. 81, (85) sts.
Row 2: k1, *k2 sts, k2tog; rep from * across. 61, (64) sts.
Row 3 and all WS Rows: purl all sts.
Row 4: k1, *k1 sts, k2tog; rep from * across. 41, (43) sts.
Row 6: k1, *k2tog; rep from * across. 21, (22) sts.
Row 8: k1, (2), *k2tog; rep from * across. 11, (12) sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a tail for seaming, and draw through remaining sts. Sew the side seam of the hat.
Rib band: With size 9 short circular, pick up and knit 72, (76) sts along the cast on edge of the hat. Pm and join in the round.
Rib Round: *k1tbl, p1; rep from * around. Repeat this round 6 times more. Bind off all sts in rib.
Weave in all ends.
Cast on 74 sts. Work in 2×2 ribbing for 2 ½”, end having worked a RS Row.
(WS) Cast on 12, (22) sts, k across 74 sts, decreasing 4 sts evenly across ribbing. 82, (92) sts.
(RS) Cast on 12, (22) sts, purl to end of row.
94, (114) sts.
Begin working in Brioche stitch.
(There will actually be 141, 171) strands of yarn on top of the needle in brioche stitch, this is ok!)
When Brioche stitch measures 41”, (45), end having worked a WS Row.
(RS): *k1, k2tog; rep from * across. 94, (114) sts on needle.
(WS): Bind off 12, (22) sts, knit to end of row.
(RS): Bind off 12, (22) sts, purl to end of row. 70 sts.
Work in 2×2 ribbing for 2 ½”, increasing 4 sts evenly across first row. Bind off all sts.
Fold the shrug in half and sew the 12, (22) stitch cast on edges of the shrug together with the side edge of the 2 ½” garter band. Repeat this for the other side, where the bind off edges are.
Collar: With RS facing and long circular, start at one of the sleeve seams and pick up and knit 164, (180) sts along the side edge of the shrug to the other sleeve seam, pm for side seam, pick up and knit 164, (180) sts along the other side edge of the shrug, placing a marker on both sides of the center 44 sts (this will mark the back neck), PM to mark beginning of round/side seam. 328, (360) sts.
Work in 2×2 ribbing for 6 rounds.
Next Round: Rib to third marker, turn.
Next Round: Rib to next marker, turn.
Next 2 Rounds: Rib to next marker, remove marker, rib 3 sts, replace marker, turn.
Repeat the last 2 rounds until you reach the side seam markers. Then, work across all sts as before in the round, removing the back neck markers.
Work 7 more rounds in ribbing.
Bind off Round: k2, slip these 2 sts back onto the left hand needle and *k2tog through the back loop, slip the new stitch back onto the left hand needle; rep from * around. Cut yarn and weave in all ends.
ABBREVIATIONS: dec = decrease, inc = increase, k = knit, k2tog = knit two together, m1= make one, pf&b= purl into the front and back of stitch, pm= place marker, psso = pass slip stitch over, p = purl, RS= right side, sl = slip, SSK = slip 1 st as if to knit, slip a second st as if to knit, knit them together through the back loop, st(s) = stitch(es), st st = stockinette st, tbl = through back loop, tog = together, WS = Wrong Side, yo = yarn over, wyif = with yarn in front, wyib = with yarn in back